Quick answer
Two weeks in Sri Lanka by train can use five rail journeys: Colombo to Kandy, Kandy to Nanu Oya, Nanu Oya to Ella, Mirissa to Galle and Galle back to Colombo. A workable plan is one night in Colombo, three in Kandy, one in Nuwara Eliya, three in Ella, one near Yala, two at Mirissa and two in Galle. There is no railway to Sigiriya or Yala, so those are reached by road.
Key takeaways
- The Main Line runs from Colombo Fort to Kandy in roughly two and a half to three hours, and on through Nanu Oya and Ella to Badulla.
- The Coast Line runs south from Colombo through Galle, roughly two to two and a half hours, to Matara and Beliatta.
- There is no railway to Sigiriya, Yala or Arugam Bay; Habarana is the nearest station to Sigiriya.
- Reserved seats on the hill-country trains sell out well ahead and are released roughly a month before travel.
- Second and third class carriages have opening windows, which many travellers prefer to air-conditioned first class for the views.
The two-week route by train
Two weeks in Sri Lanka by train starts in Colombo, not at Sigiriya, because that is where the Main Line begins. The route climbs to Kandy, continues through the tea country to Ella, crosses to the coast by road and returns along the sea.
- →Colombo, one night: recover from the flight; the station is Colombo Fort.
- →Kandy, three nights: by train; one day for Sigiriya and Dambulla by road.
- →Nuwara Eliya, one night: by train to Nanu Oya, then a short drive.
- →Ella, three nights: by train from Nanu Oya.
- →Tissamaharama, one night: by road, for a Yala safari.
- →Mirissa, two nights: by road along the coast.
- →Galle, two nights: by train from Mirissa or Weligama, then back to Colombo by train.
The five rail journeys
The five journeys differ greatly in length and character. Two are among the most scenic in Asia; one is a commuter line that happens to run beside the Indian Ocean.
- →Colombo Fort to Kandy: roughly two and a half to three hours; the climb at Kadugannawa is the highlight. Sit on the right.
- →Kandy to Nanu Oya: roughly four hours through tea estates and tunnels. The right side usually has the better views.
- →Nanu Oya to Ella: roughly two and a half to three hours across the summit and along the ridge. The left side is usually preferred.
- →Mirissa or Weligama to Galle: roughly 45 minutes to an hour on a local train, with glimpses of the sea.
- →Galle to Colombo: roughly two to two and a half hours, much of it within metres of the beach. Sit on the left heading north.
The gaps the railway does not cover
The railway misses two of the island's main sights, and a train-shaped fortnight has to be honest about that. Sigiriya has no station. It can be visited as a long day trip by car from Kandy, roughly two and a half to three hours each way, with the Dambulla Cave Temple on the road back. Travellers who want more of the Cultural Triangle should add two nights there by car and drop Colombo and one Kandy night.
The second gap is the south-east. From Ella, the line ends at Badulla, and Yala is reached only by road, roughly two to two and a half hours to Tissamaharama. The coast railway begins again at Beliatta and Matara, so the stretch from Yala to Mirissa is also by road.
Classes, tickets and booking
Sri Lankan trains have three classes, and the right choice is not always the most expensive. First class is usually an air-conditioned carriage with sealed windows, or on some trains an observation car at the rear. Second and third class reserved carriages have fans and windows that open, which is better for photographs and for feeling the air change as the train climbs.
Reserved seats are sold online and at stations, and are released roughly a month ahead; the exact window changes, so confirm it. Hill-country trains sell out quickly in high season. Unreserved tickets are sold on the day and never run out, but mean standing in a crowded carriage, sometimes for hours.
- →Book the Kandy to Nanu Oya and Nanu Oya to Ella legs first.
- →The coast trains rarely need reservations outside holiday weekends.
- →Trains often run late; do not plan a tight connection.
Luggage, stations and safety
Travelling by train means carrying your own bags, so pack light. Overhead racks are narrow, and large suitcases end up in the vestibule. A soft bag of cabin size and a day pack is the ideal. Stations have tuk-tuks waiting; agree the fare before getting in.
The open doors of Sri Lankan trains are famous in photographs and dangerous in practice. People are seriously injured every year leaning out for pictures. Sit by an open window instead. Keep valuables on your person in crowded carriages, and carry water and snacks, although vendors pass through with tea and short eats.
Planning a rail fortnight, and a hybrid
A rail fortnight suits travellers who enjoy the journey as much as the arrival and do not mind a slower, less predictable trip. Choose it for the atmosphere. Choose a car and driver with two train rides, the standard arrangement, if time and comfort matter more.
A hybrid often works best: a driver for the Cultural Triangle and the southern roads, who also carries the luggage while you ride the rails. Lankan Stays & Trails can arrange reserved seats and a driver to meet each train. The 14-day itinerary without a private driver covers the standard route by public transport.
Frequently asked questions
Can I travel around Sri Lanka by train?
Partly. Trains link Colombo with Kandy, the hill country as far as Badulla, the south coast as far as Beliatta, and Anuradhapura, Jaffna, Trincomalee and Batticaloa. There is no railway to Sigiriya, Yala or Arugam Bay, so a trip by train always includes some road travel.
What is the best train journey in Sri Lanka?
The hill-country line from Kandy to Ella is the best known, especially the stretch between Nanu Oya and Ella, which takes roughly two and a half to three hours through tea estates and cloud forest. The coast line between Colombo and Galle is the finest seaside ride.
How do I book train tickets in Sri Lanka?
Reserved seats can be booked online through the railway's reservation system or at major stations, and are released roughly a month before travel. Popular hill-country trains sell out fast. Unreserved tickets are bought at the station on the day and cannot sell out.
Which class is best on Sri Lankan trains?
Second class reserved is the best balance for most travellers: an assigned seat, a fan and windows that open for views and photographs. First class is air-conditioned with sealed windows. Third class reserved is similar to second, with slightly less padding.
Which side of the train should I sit on from Kandy to Ella?
The right side is usually recommended from Kandy to Nanu Oya, and the left side from Nanu Oya to Ella. Views appear on both sides at different points, so a window seat matters more than the side. Reserved seats are allocated and cannot always be chosen.
Is train travel in Sri Lanka safe?
Yes, with common sense. The main risk is leaning out of open doors, which causes serious injuries each year. Stay inside the carriage while the train is moving, watch your belongings in crowded trains and allow for delays.