Quick answer
Two weeks in Sri Lanka in May should follow the east-coast route: three nights at Sigiriya, three at Trincomalee or Nilaveli, two in Kandy, one in Nuwara Eliya, two in Ella, one near Yala or Udawalawe and a last night at Negombo. The south-west monsoon usually arrives in the second half of May, bringing rain and rough seas to Mirissa, Galle and Bentota, while the east coast is dry. Vesak, at the May full moon, is a highlight.
Key takeaways
- The south-west monsoon usually reaches Sri Lanka in the second half of May, affecting the south and west coasts and the western hills.
- Trincomalee, Nilaveli and Pasikudah are dry and calm in May, at the start of the east coast season.
- Vesak, at the May full moon, fills towns with lanterns and free food stalls; alcohol is not sold during the holiday.
- Yala National Park is open and dry in May, and May to July is the best period for seeing sloth bears.
- May is one of the least expensive months for a two-week trip, with low-season rates on much of the island.
The two-week route for May
May calls for the east-coast version of the fortnight. The route still opens in the Cultural Triangle, but instead of saving the beach for the end it places three nights at Trincomalee or Nilaveli straight after Sigiriya, roughly two to three hours away.
From the east coast the route turns inland to Kandy, roughly four to four and a half hours, then follows the hill country south. The trip finishes with a safari and a night near the airport, not on the south coast, where the sea is rough.
- →Sigiriya, three nights: the rock, Polonnaruwa and an elephant safari.
- →Trincomalee or Nilaveli, three nights: Pigeon Island, Koneswaram Temple and calm swimming.
- →Kandy, two nights: the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic and Peradeniya.
- →Nuwara Eliya, one night, and Ella, two nights, linked by the scenic train.
- →Yala or Udawalawe, one night, then Negombo, one night, before the flight.
May weather and the arrival of the monsoon
May weather in Sri Lanka falls into two halves. The first weeks are hot and humid across the island, with afternoon thunderstorms left over from April. Then, usually in the second half of the month, the south-west monsoon sets in, and the south and west coasts turn wet and windy.
The monsoon is regional. There is always a good coast in Sri Lanka, and from May it is the eastern one. The central hills stop most of the rain, which is why Trincomalee can be in full sun while Galle is under cloud.
- →East coast: dry, hot and calm, with clear water.
- →Cultural Triangle: hot and mostly dry, with the occasional evening storm.
- →Western hills, including Nuwara Eliya: increasingly wet and misty late in the month.
- →Ella and the Uva side of the hills: drier and breezier than Nuwara Eliya.
- →South and west coasts: rain and rough seas once the monsoon arrives.
Vesak during a May fortnight
Vesak marks the birth, enlightenment and passing of the Buddha, and is celebrated at the full moon in May. Towns hang paper lanterns, illuminated panels called pandals tell stories from the Buddha's lives, and roadside stalls known as dansalas give free food and drink to anyone who passes.
Kandy and Colombo have the largest displays, and an evening walk around either is one of the most memorable things a May trip offers. Alcohol and meat are not sold during the Vesak holiday, which usually covers two days. Dates shift each year with the lunar calendar.
Yala or Udawalawe in May
The east-coast route normally uses Udawalawe for its safari, because Yala's main block usually closes for part of September and October. In May that reason does not apply. Yala National Park is open, dry and productive, and May to July is when sloth bears come out to feed on ripe palu fruit.
Choose Yala in May for leopards and the chance of a sloth bear, accepting a longer drive to the airport of roughly four to five hours. Choose Udawalawe for reliable elephants and a shorter run of roughly four hours to Negombo.
- →Yala: leopards, sloth bears, crocodiles; drier and dustier than in the first months of the year.
- →Udawalawe: large elephant herds, open grassland, fewer jeeps.
- →Either park is roughly two to two and a half hours from Ella.
Prices and crowds in May
May is one of the best-value months for two weeks in Sri Lanka. Hotels on the south and west coasts drop to low-season rates, the hill country is quiet outside the Vesak holiday, and the east coast has not yet reached its July and August peak.
Sites such as Sigiriya and Polonnaruwa are noticeably emptier than in the first months of the year. As a guide, mid-range travel still falls within roughly US$80 to US$180 per person per day, usually towards the lower end in May.
Planning two weeks in Sri Lanka in May
Planning two weeks in Sri Lanka in May means committing to the east and keeping the hill-country days flexible. If the forecast for Nuwara Eliya is poor, that night can move to Ella, which sits on the drier side of the hills.
Lankan Stays & Trails can arrange the east-coast route with a private driver, and will time Kandy or Colombo for Vesak where the dates allow. The May to September version of the 14-day itinerary gives the route day by day.
Frequently asked questions
Is May a bad time to visit Sri Lanka for two weeks?
No. May is a poor month for the south and west coasts once the south-west monsoon arrives, but the east coast, the Cultural Triangle and Yala are dry. A two-week route that swaps Mirissa for Trincomalee works well, and prices are lower than in high season.
When does the monsoon start in Sri Lanka in May?
The south-west monsoon usually arrives in the second half of May, though the date varies from year to year. It brings rain and rough seas to the south and west coasts and the western hills. The east and north of the island remain mostly dry.
Which beach is best in Sri Lanka in May?
The east coast is best in May. Nilaveli and Uppuveli near Trincomalee, and Pasikudah further south, have calm, clear water and dry weather. Arugam Bay's surf season is also beginning. Beaches on the south and west coasts are rougher, with red flags common.
What is Vesak like for visitors?
Vesak is welcoming and easy to enjoy. Towns are decorated with lanterns and illuminated pandals, and free food stalls serve everyone. Temples are busy, so dress modestly in white or pale colours. Alcohol and meat are not sold during the holiday, which usually lasts two days.
Is Yala open in May?
Yes. Yala National Park is open in May and is dry, with animals gathering near water. May to July is also the best period for sloth bear sightings. The park's main block usually closes for a few weeks from about September, not in May.
Can I still go to the south coast in May?
Yes, but with lower expectations. Early May can still give fine days at Mirissa or Galle. Once the monsoon arrives, expect rain, strong surf and no whale watching. Galle Fort remains worth a night for its streets and ramparts, whatever the sea is doing.