Quick answer
A 5-day hill country itinerary starting in Ella spends two nights in Ella, one in Nuwara Eliya and one in Kandy. Day one is the long drive, roughly 6 to 7 hours by the Southern Expressway. Day three takes the train from Ella to Nanu Oya, roughly 2.5 to 3 hours, and day four drives down to Kandy. Kandy is roughly 3 to 4 hours from the airport, so departure day is easy.
Key takeaways
- The route is Ella 2 nights, Nuwara Eliya 1 night and Kandy 1 night.
- The long drive, roughly 6 to 7 hours, falls on arrival day instead of departure day.
- The train runs from Ella to Nanu Oya, the same scenery in the other direction.
- Kandy is roughly 3 to 4 hours from the airport, so day five has time for Peradeniya.
- Trains towards Kandy are often less crowded than those towards Ella.
Why reverse the route
The classic hill country route goes Kandy, Nuwara Eliya, Ella, and on a five-day trip that leaves the longest drive, roughly 6 to 7 hours from Ella to the airport, on the last day. Many travellers dislike spending their final day in a car worrying about the flight.
Reversing it moves the long drive to day one, when you have already accepted a day of travel. The Southern Expressway makes the run to Ella straightforward, and you arrive for an evening in the hills.
The last day then starts in Kandy, roughly 3 to 4 hours from the airport, with time for Peradeniya gardens before you leave.
- →Long drive on day one.
- →Short drive on day five.
- →Same sights, other direction.
Day by day
Day one drives from the airport to Ella, roughly 6 to 7 hours by the Southern Expressway and the climb through Wellawaya, arriving for an evening in town. Day two is Ella's day: Little Adam's Peak at sunrise, the Nine Arch Bridge mid-morning and Ravana Falls or a tea factory later.
Day three takes the train from Ella to Nanu Oya, roughly 2.5 to 3 hours, and an afternoon in Nuwara Eliya. Day four is an early estate walk, then the drive to Kandy, roughly 2.5 to 3 hours, past Ramboda Falls, with the evening puja.
Day five is Peradeniya gardens in the morning and roughly 3 to 4 hours to the airport.
- →Day 1: airport to Ella.
- →Day 2: Little Adam's Peak, Nine Arch Bridge.
- →Day 3: train to Nanu Oya, Nuwara Eliya.
- →Day 4: to Kandy, puja.
- →Day 5: Peradeniya, airport.
The train in the other direction
The train from Ella to Nanu Oya climbs rather than descends, passing Haputale, Idalgashinna and the highest point near Pattipola. The scenery is the same as in the usual direction, and some say the climb gives the best views.
Trains heading away from Ella are often a little less crowded than those heading to it, though reserved seats still sell out in busy months. Book early and have a road backup: Ella to Nuwara Eliya by car is roughly 2 to 2.5 hours.
Never lean out of the doors for photographs. Take pictures from your seat or the window.
- →Duration: roughly 2.5 to 3 hours.
- →Often less crowded.
- →Road backup: 2 to 2.5 hours.
Arrival day and jet lag
A long drive on arrival day is tiring, especially after an overnight flight. Make it easier with a comfortable car, stops every two hours and an early night in Ella.
With a night arrival, this route needs a first night at Negombo, which pushes everything back a day. In that case, the standard direction or a shorter hill route may suit better.
Lankan Stays & Trails can plan breaks on the drive south and choose an Ella hotel where you can sleep well on the first night.
When this route works
The hill country is driest roughly January to April. Ella, on the eastern side of the hills, is often drier than Nuwara Eliya and Hatton from May to September.
October and November are wet across the hills, and the north-east monsoon can bring rain to Ella in December. In July or August, check the Kandy Esala Perahera dates, because Kandy fills up and the last night may need early booking.
- →Best: January to April.
- →Ella drier: May to September.
- →Perahera: book Kandy early.
Who this route suits
Travellers with an early evening or afternoon flight, families who want an easy last day and anyone who would rather start than finish with a long drive are the route's natural audience.
Travellers arriving at night should consider the standard direction or a two-base route instead.
Frequently asked questions
Why start the hill country in Ella?
Starting in Ella puts the longest drive, roughly 6 to 7 hours from the airport, on arrival day, when you are travelling anyway. The trip then ends in Kandy, roughly 3 to 4 hours from the airport, which gives an easier, less anxious last day.
How long is the drive from the airport to Ella?
The drive from the airport to Ella takes roughly 6 to 7 hours, mostly by the Southern Expressway, then climbing into the hills through Wellawaya. Stops every two hours make it more comfortable. Arrive by early evening for a walk in town.
Is the train from Ella to Nanu Oya as good as the other direction?
Yes. The scenery is the same, and some travellers prefer the climb from Ella for the views. Trains heading away from Ella are often a little less crowded. Reserved seats still sell out in busy months, so book early.
Is this route good with a night arrival?
Not ideal. A night arrival needs a first night at Negombo, which pushes the long drive to Ella onto day two and shortens the trip. With a night arrival, a route like Kandy and Nuwara Eliya, with shorter drives, usually works better.
Can I see Horton Plains on this route?
Not comfortably, because Nuwara Eliya has only one night. Horton Plains needs a dawn start, roughly an hour from Nuwara Eliya. You could visit it on the morning of day four before driving to Kandy, but that makes a very long day.
Is Ella worth two nights?
Ella is worth two nights on this route because day two becomes a full day for Little Adam's Peak, the Nine Arch Bridge and Ravana Falls without any packing. After the long arrival drive, a night of rest before the walks is welcome.