Quick answer
An arrack old fashioned with kithul treacle is made by stirring 60 ml of aged coconut arrack with one teaspoon (about 5 ml) of kithul treacle and two dashes of aromatic bitters over ice, then straining over one large ice cube and finishing with a strip of orange or lime peel. Kithul treacle, the boiled sap of Sri Lanka's fishtail palm, replaces the usual sugar and adds a smoky caramel depth. Use an arrack aged for several years at around 40 per cent.
Key takeaways
- An arrack old fashioned uses 60 ml of aged arrack, about 5 ml of kithul treacle and two dashes of bitters.
- Kithul treacle is the boiled sap of the fishtail palm (Caryota urens), tapped in Sri Lanka's wet-zone hills.
- An old fashioned is stirred, not shaken, for roughly 20 to 30 seconds to chill and dilute it gently.
- Pure coconut arrack aged for several years gives the best result in a spirit-forward cocktail.
- Genuine kithul treacle is sold in supermarkets and village stalls, and cheaper bottles are often diluted with sugar syrup.
What an arrack old fashioned is
An arrack old fashioned follows the oldest cocktail formula there is: spirit, sugar, bitters and water in the form of melting ice. It is normally made with whiskey. Aged arrack takes the role comfortably.
An arrack old fashioned is a slow, strong drink in which the spirit does most of the talking. Kithul treacle is what makes this version Sri Lankan, bringing a flavour between maple syrup and dark caramel with a hint of smoke.
Ingredients for one arrack old fashioned
The ingredients for an arrack old fashioned are few and worth choosing carefully. Measures are for one drink.
- →60 ml aged pure coconut arrack, around 40 per cent.
- →5 ml (one teaspoon) kithul treacle.
- →Two dashes of aromatic bitters.
- →A strip of orange peel, or lime peel if oranges are scarce.
- →Ice for stirring and one large cube for serving.
How to stir an arrack old fashioned
Stirring an arrack old fashioned is the whole technique. The aim is to chill the drink and add a little water without clouding it.
- →Put the treacle and bitters in a mixing glass and add a splash of arrack.
- →Stir until the treacle has dissolved.
- →Add the remaining arrack and fill with ice.
- →Stir steadily for 20 to 30 seconds.
- →Strain over one large ice cube in a short glass.
- →Twist the peel over the surface to release its oils and drop it in.
Kithul treacle: what it is and how to buy it
Kithul treacle comes from the fishtail palm, which grows wild and in home gardens in the wet hills around Kandy, Ratnapura, Kegalle and the Sinharaja region. Tappers collect the flower sap much as coconut tappers do, and it is boiled over wood fires until thick.
Kithul treacle is best known poured over buffalo curd. Pure treacle is expensive to make, and many bottles are stretched with cane sugar. Look for labels stating pure kithul, buy from a producer or a trusted shop, and expect to pay noticeably more for the real thing.
Choosing the arrack
Choosing the arrack for an old fashioned matters more than in any other cocktail, since there is nothing to hide behind.
- →Best: pure coconut arrack aged roughly seven to twelve years.
- →Good: a younger pure coconut arrack at 40 per cent.
- →Acceptable: double distilled arrack, with slightly less treacle.
- →Avoid: light blended and extra special arracks, which turn thin and sweet.
Where to try one, and taking the idea home
An arrack old fashioned appears on cocktail lists in Colombo, Galle Fort and at boutique hotels in the hills around Kandy, where an evening can be cool enough to suit it. It is also easy to recreate at home, since both arrack and treacle travel well in checked luggage.
Lankan Stays & Trails can add a stop at a kithul producer in the Kandy hills, where you can watch the sap being boiled and buy treacle at source.
Frequently asked questions
How do you make an arrack old fashioned?
Stir 60 ml of aged coconut arrack with one teaspoon of kithul treacle and two dashes of aromatic bitters over ice for 20 to 30 seconds. Strain over one large ice cube in a short glass and garnish with a twist of orange or lime peel.
What is kithul treacle made from?
Kithul treacle is made from the sap of the kithul or fishtail palm, tapped from the flower and boiled down over a fire until thick and dark. It is produced mainly in Sri Lanka's wet-zone hill districts and has a smoky caramel flavour.
Can I substitute kithul treacle?
Yes. Dark maple syrup is the closest widely available substitute, followed by a rich demerara sugar syrup or a little date syrup. None has quite the same smoky note. Coconut treacle from Sri Lanka also works and is slightly lighter.
Which arrack is best for an old fashioned?
A pure coconut arrack aged for several years at around 40 per cent alcohol is best. It has the body and length a spirit-forward cocktail needs. Younger or blended arracks produce a thinner drink and need less treacle to stay balanced.
Should an old fashioned be shaken or stirred?
Stirred. Shaking adds air and too much water and makes the drink cloudy. Stirring over ice for 20 to 30 seconds chills it and adds a controlled amount of dilution, keeping the texture smooth and the appearance clear.
Can I bring kithul treacle home from Sri Lanka?
Yes. Kithul treacle is sold in sealed glass or plastic bottles and travels well in checked luggage. Wrap it carefully, as it is sticky if it leaks. Check your home country's rules on bringing in food products, which are usually relaxed for sealed syrups.