Quick answer
Colombo has a growing specialty coffee scene, with cafes in Colombo 3, Colombo 7 and around Galle Face serving flat whites, long blacks and cold brew, some roasting Sri Lankan beans. Galle Fort has several espresso cafes within a short walk of the cricket ground, and Kandy has a few. Elsewhere, coffee is often instant or sweet and milky, so carry your own if you are particular. Sri Lankan tea is the excellent alternative.
Key takeaways
- Colombo has a growing specialty coffee scene.
- Galle Fort has espresso cafes within walking distance of the ground.
- Kandy has a few good cafes; smaller towns rarely do.
- Sri Lanka grew coffee before tea, and some local beans are roasted again today.
- Outside cafes, coffee is often instant or sweet and milky.
Colombo
Colombo's cafe scene has grown quickly, and it is now easy to find a good flat white, long black or cold brew, especially in Colombo 3 (Kollupitiya), Colombo 7 (Cinnamon Gardens) and around Galle Face. Several cafes roast their own beans, some from Sri Lankan farms, and serve brunch menus familiar to Australians.
Many open early, around 7 am, which suits a coffee before heading to the SSC or before a day trip. Hotel cafes are reliable but pricier.
Lankan Stays & Trails drivers in Colombo usually know a few good cafes along the way to the ground.
- →Colombo 3, Colombo 7 and Galle Face.
- →Flat whites, long blacks and cold brew.
- →Open early on most days.
Galle Fort
Galle Fort has several cafes serving espresso coffee, many within a five- to ten-minute walk of the cricket ground. On a Test morning, a coffee in the fort and a walk along the ramparts to the gate is a fine start to the day.
Cafes in the fort range from simple coffee bars to brunch spots in restored colonial houses, with shady courtyards. Unawatuna and the south coast beach towns also have a few good cafes aimed at surfers and travellers.
Cafes fill up on match mornings, so allow a little time.
If you are staying outside the fort, in Unawatuna or along the coast, a tuk-tuk into Galle for a coffee and a walk along the walls before play is a good habit. Many fans make it a match-day ritual.
- →Espresso cafes in the fort.
- →Walk to the ground after coffee.
- →Busy on match mornings.
Kandy and beyond
Kandy has a handful of cafes serving good espresso, mostly around the lake and the town centre, convenient before a drive to Pallekele. Ella, in the hill country, has a lively cafe scene for travellers.
Outside these towns, coffee is often instant, or brewed strong and served sweet with milk. If you rely on a good coffee each morning, consider bringing a travel press or drip bags.
In the cultural triangle, around Sigiriya and Dambulla, a few guesthouses and cafes now serve espresso for travellers, but it is worth asking before you order.
- →A few good cafes in Kandy.
- →Ella for travellers' cafes.
- →Bring drip bags for smaller towns.
Sri Lankan coffee
Sri Lanka was once one of the world's biggest coffee producers, until a leaf disease in the 1870s destroyed the plantations and planters turned to tea. Coffee is still grown on a small scale in the hills, and some roasters now champion local beans.
Buying a bag of locally roasted coffee is a good souvenir, though check Australian biosecurity rules, which allow roasted coffee but restrict green beans.
- →Coffee came before tea.
- →Small-scale local growing today.
- →Roasted beans make a good souvenir.
The tea alternative
Sri Lankan tea, known as Ceylon tea, is excellent and everywhere. Plain tea, milk tea and ginger tea are served at roadside stalls and hotels alike, and a tea factory visit in the hills shows how it is made. At the ground, a cup of milky tea is easy to find.
Many Australian fans leave as tea converts.
Tea culture has its own rituals: a cup with breakfast, another mid-morning, and a sweet milk tea in the afternoon, often with a short eat such as a fish bun or a sweet. Joining in is one of the small pleasures of travelling in Sri Lanka.
Frequently asked questions
Can you get a good flat white in Colombo?
Yes, Colombo's specialty coffee scene has grown quickly, and cafes in Colombo 3, Colombo 7 and around Galle Face serve flat whites, long blacks and cold brew. Several roast their own beans, some from Sri Lankan farms, and open early.
Is there good coffee in Galle Fort?
Yes, Galle Fort has several espresso cafes, many within a short walk of the cricket ground. A coffee in the fort before walking to the gate is a good start to a Test day. Cafes fill up on match mornings, so allow a little time.
Does Sri Lanka grow coffee?
Sri Lanka was a major coffee producer until a leaf disease in the 1870s destroyed the plantations, and planters switched to tea. Coffee is still grown on a small scale in the hills, and some roasters now use local beans.
Can you bring Sri Lankan coffee back to Australia?
Roasted coffee is generally allowed into Australia if declared, but green, unroasted beans are restricted. Check the Australian biosecurity rules before you travel, and keep coffee in sealed commercial packaging.
What is coffee like outside the big towns?
Outside Colombo, Galle, Kandy and Ella, coffee is often instant, or brewed strong and served sweet with milk. If you rely on a good coffee, bring a travel press or drip bags. Sri Lankan tea is the excellent alternative everywhere.
Is there coffee at Sri Lankan cricket grounds?
Coffee at the grounds is usually instant or sweet and milky, if available at all. Tea is easier to find. Get a proper coffee in town before the match, and carry water and a cold drink into the ground.
Where can you get coffee in Kandy?
Kandy has a handful of cafes serving good espresso, mostly around the lake and the town centre. They are convenient for a coffee before the drive to Pallekele. Hotel cafes also serve espresso coffee.
What tea should you try in Sri Lanka?
Try plain black Ceylon tea, sweet milk tea from a roadside stall and ginger tea, which is good for the stomach. In the hill country, high-grown teas from Nuwara Eliya are light and delicate. A factory visit lets you taste several grades side by side.