Quick answer
On a luxury 7-day Sri Lanka itinerary, the train ride is the Nanu Oya to Ella section on day 4, about two and a half to three hours. First class is air-conditioned and reserved, but its windows are usually sealed, which dulls the view and rules out photographs. Second class reserved has opening windows and suits most travellers better. Some trains carry an observation saloon with a large rear window. Reservations open roughly 30 days ahead and sell out quickly from December to April.
Key takeaways
- The Nanu Oya to Ella train takes two and a half to three hours and covers the most scenic part of the main line.
- First-class carriages on most hill country trains are air-conditioned with sealed windows.
- Second class reserved has numbered seats and windows that open, at a lower fare than first class.
- Reserved seats on Sri Lanka's hill country trains go on sale roughly 30 days before travel.
- The line between Nanu Oya and Ella reaches about 1,900 metres at Pattipola, the highest station in Sri Lanka.
The train on the luxury week
First-class train seats on a luxury 7-day Sri Lanka itinerary are for one journey: the afternoon of day 4, from Nanu Oya to Ella. The full ride from Kandy takes six to seven hours, and most luxury travellers drive the first half through the tea estates and board for the second.
That section is the reason people take the train at all. The line climbs to about 1,900 metres at Pattipola, passes through cloud forest near Ohiya, and comes down through Haputale and Bandarawela with the southern plains visible far below.
First, second and observation
Trains on the hill country line carry up to four kinds of carriage. First class is air-conditioned with reserved reclining seats. Second class reserved has numbered seats, fans and windows that open. Third class reserved is similar and more basic. Unreserved carriages are a matter of luck.
Some services also include an observation saloon at the rear, an older first-class carriage with a large window at the end and seats facing backwards. It has character and is hard to book. Carriages vary from train to train, so the class name is no guarantee of what turns up.
- →First class: cool, quiet, sealed windows.
- →Second reserved: open windows, a breeze, better photographs.
- →Observation saloon: rear view, limited seats, older stock.
The sealed window problem
First class is the natural choice for a luxury traveller and often a disappointment. The glass is fixed and frequently tinted or scratched. You watch the tea country pass as if on a screen, and cannot lean out, smell the eucalyptus or take a clear photograph.
Second class reserved gives all of that. At the heights the train reaches after Nanu Oya, air conditioning is unnecessary, since the afternoon temperature is 16 to 22 degrees Celsius. For most guests, second class reserved is the better seat.
- →Choose first class for guaranteed cool and quiet.
- →Choose second reserved for the view and the air.
- →Sit on the right-hand side leaving Nanu Oya for the longer views.
How seats are booked
Reserved seats on Sri Lanka Railways go on sale roughly 30 days before departure and, in the peak months, sell out within hours for the popular trains. Tickets are issued for a specific train, class and seat, and passport details are required.
An operator books on your behalf the moment sales open. Even so, seats cannot be promised months ahead, and an honest quote says so. The fallback is a different train, a different class, or the same scenery by road through Haputale.
Doors, safety and comfort
The open doors of Sri Lankan trains appear in countless photographs, and leaning from them causes serious injuries every year. Tunnels, signal posts and vegetation pass very close. Stand inside the doorway if you wish, hold on, and keep limbs within the carriage.
Comfort on board is simple in every class. Toilets are basic, vendors sell tea and fried snacks, and there is no dining car. Bring water, hand gel and something to eat from the hotel.
- →Stay inside the doorway and keep a firm hold.
- →Carry water and a snack, since there is no dining car.
- →Use the toilet at the station before boarding.
Luggage and meeting the car
Your luggage does not need to travel by train on a luxury week. The chauffeur-guide sees you onto the platform at Nanu Oya, then drives to Ella in about two to two and a half hours and is waiting when you step off.
Lankan Stays & Trails times the morning around the reserved seats and keeps the car within reach in case of a long delay, which is common on this line. Trains regularly run 30 to 90 minutes late, and the plan for the evening should allow for it.
Frequently asked questions
Is first class worth it on the Kandy to Ella train?
Not for everyone. First class is air-conditioned and quiet, but the windows are usually sealed, so you cannot feel the air or photograph clearly. Second class reserved has opening windows and is preferred by many travellers, including those on luxury trips.
How far ahead can I book train tickets in Sri Lanka?
Reserved seats usually go on sale about 30 days before the travel date. For December to April, the popular morning trains sell out within hours. Booking through an operator who buys on the release day gives the best chance.
Which side of the train is best from Nanu Oya to Ella?
The right-hand side in the direction of travel has the longer views for much of the route, especially after Haputale. The left has good stretches too, and with open windows it is easy to move across when the carriage is not full.
Is there a luxury train in Sri Lanka?
There is no private luxury train on the regular timetable. Special tourist carriages and charter services have operated at times on the hill country line. Check what is running when you plan, and treat first or second class reserved as the standard option.
How long is the train from Nanu Oya to Ella?
About two and a half to three hours on schedule, covering roughly 65 kilometres. Delays of 30 to 90 minutes are common. The route passes Pattipola, the highest station in Sri Lanka, then Ohiya, Haputale and Bandarawela before reaching Ella.
Can I take the train from Kandy instead of Nanu Oya?
Yes. The full journey from Kandy to Ella takes six to seven hours. Many travellers find that long, and prefer to drive to Nanu Oya through the tea estates in about three hours and take the train for the final, most scenic section.