Quick answer
Sri Lankan milk wine is made from arrack or brandy, fresh full-cream milk, sugar, citrus and spices. A typical batch uses one 750 ml bottle of arrack, 500 to 750 ml of milk, 400 to 500 g of sugar with part of it caramelised, the juice and peel of four to six limes, and cinnamon, cloves and cardamom, often with vanilla. The spirit gives strength, the milk clarifies and softens, sugar and caramel sweeten and colour, citrus curdles the milk and adds freshness, and spices give aroma.
Key takeaways
- The core ingredients are arrack or brandy, full-cream milk, sugar, citrus and spice.
- A typical batch uses one 750 ml bottle of arrack and 500 to 750 ml of milk.
- Citrus acid and alcohol curdle the milk, which then clarifies the drink.
- Caramelised sugar gives the golden colour and a burnt-sugar depth.
- Vanilla, rose or almond essence and nutmeg are common family additions.
The spirit
The spirit is the backbone of milk wine. Most Sri Lankan families use coconut arrack, the island's traditional spirit, distilled from coconut toddy and usually bottled at roughly 33 to 40 per cent alcohol. Arrack gives a mellow, woody and faintly nutty base that suits the spices well.
Some families use brandy, which gives a fruitier, richer milk wine, and a few mix arrack and brandy. Abroad, where arrack is hard to find, brandy or rum is common. Whatever the spirit, it should be a licensed, sealed product, never informal spirit of unknown origin.
One 750 ml bottle is the usual unit. Recipes are often written per bottle, so a family making three bottles of arrack worth simply triples everything else.
- →Usual: coconut arrack, one 750 ml bottle.
- →Alternative: brandy, or arrack and brandy mixed.
- →Abroad: brandy or rum.
The milk
Fresh full-cream milk is the clarifying agent. When it is boiled and poured into the acidic, alcoholic mixture, it curdles, and the curds trap fine particles as they form. Straining removes the curds and leaves a clear, smooth liquid.
Full-cream milk works best because it forms firm curds that filter well. Low-fat milk curdles poorly and can leave the drink hazy. Most families today use packaged full-cream milk; older recipes call for fresh milk from a local dairy.
Quantities vary from about 500 ml to 750 ml per bottle of arrack. More milk gives a softer, gentler drink; less gives a stronger, sharper one.
- →Type: fresh full-cream milk.
- →Amount: roughly 500 to 750 ml per bottle of arrack.
- →Job: curdles and clarifies.
Sugar and caramel
Sugar is a large part of milk wine, typically 400 to 500 g per bottle of arrack. It sweetens, adds body and helps preserve the drink. White sugar is usual, and some families use a little brown sugar or treacle for depth.
Many recipes caramelise part of the sugar first, melting it in a dry pan until amber, then dissolving it in water or juice. Caramel gives the golden colour and a burnt-sugar richness. The darker the caramel, the darker the milk wine.
Sugar levels are a matter of taste and family style. Some modern cooks reduce the sugar, but too little can make the drink taste harsh and keep less well.
Citrus
Citrus does two jobs. The juice provides the acid that, with the alcohol, curdles the milk. The peel, steeped in the spirit, adds a fresh, slightly bitter aroma. Limes are traditional in Sri Lanka, usually four to six per bottle of arrack.
Lemons are common abroad and in some families at home, giving a softer, rounder citrus note. Some recipes add orange peel or juice for a sweeter, more aromatic milk wine.
The peel should be pared thinly, without the white pith, which is bitter. Families steep it in the arrack for a day or two before mixing.
- →Traditional: limes, four to six per bottle.
- →Alternatives: lemons, oranges.
- →Peel: thinly pared, no pith.
Spices and flavourings
Spices give milk wine its aroma. Cinnamon sticks are almost universal, with cloves and crushed cardamom pods common. Some families add a little grated nutmeg or a star anise. The spices are steeped in the arrack with the peel.
Flavourings vary by family. Vanilla essence or a vanilla pod is very common, and rose essence or almond essence appears in some recipes, echoing the flavours of Sri Lankan Christmas cake. A few families add a little honey.
Spice should be balanced. Too many cloves give a medicinal taste, and too much rose essence can be overwhelming. Most families use small amounts and let the flavours develop as the drink rests.
- →Usual: cinnamon, cloves, cardamom.
- →Sometimes: nutmeg, star anise.
- →Flavourings: vanilla, rose, almond, honey.
A typical shopping list
For one bottle of arrack, a typical shopping list looks like this, though every family adjusts it. Quantities are guidance rather than rules, and the first batch is a chance to learn what you like.
Lankan Stays & Trails can point December visitors to markets in Colombo where spices, vanilla and limes are sold fresh, and to cooking experiences where milk wine and Christmas cake are made.
- →Arrack: one 750 ml bottle.
- →Full-cream milk: 500 to 750 ml.
- →Sugar: 400 to 500 g, part caramelised.
- →Limes: four to six, juice and peel.
- →Spices: two cinnamon sticks, six to eight cloves, four to six cardamom pods.
- →Vanilla: a teaspoon of essence or one pod.
Frequently asked questions
What ingredients are in milk wine?
Sri Lankan milk wine is made from arrack or brandy, fresh full-cream milk, sugar with part of it caramelised, lime juice and peel, and spices such as cinnamon, cloves and cardamom. Many families add vanilla, and some add rose or almond essence or nutmeg.
How much milk goes into milk wine?
Typically 500 to 750 ml of full-cream milk per 750 ml bottle of arrack. More milk gives a softer, gentler milk wine, and less gives a stronger one. The milk is boiled before being poured into the spirit mixture.
Can I use low-fat milk for milk wine?
It is not recommended. Low-fat milk forms weaker curds that filter poorly, which can leave the milk wine hazy. Full-cream milk gives firm curds and a clearer, smoother result. Semi-skimmed milk can work with very slow straining.
Why does milk wine need citrus?
The acid in the citrus juice, together with the alcohol, makes the milk curdle, which clarifies the drink. The peel, steeped in the spirit, adds a fresh aroma. Limes are traditional in Sri Lanka; lemons and oranges are common alternatives.
Can milk wine be made with brandy?
Yes. Some Sri Lankan families use brandy instead of arrack, or mix the two. Brandy gives a fruitier, richer milk wine. Abroad, brandy is a common substitute when arrack is hard to find.
How much sugar is in milk wine?
A typical recipe uses 400 to 500 g of sugar per bottle of arrack, with part of it caramelised. Milk wine is a sweet drink, and the sugar also helps it keep. Some cooks use less, but too little can make it harsh.