Quick answer
Pot still arrack is heavier, oilier and more aromatic, while column still arrack is lighter, cleaner and higher in strength. A copper pot still distils coconut toddy in batches, usually twice, and keeps more flavour compounds. A column still runs continuously and strips more of them out. Most Sri Lankan arracks blend the two, using pot distillate for character and column distillate for smoothness. Choose a pot-led arrack for sipping and a lighter blend for long drinks.
Key takeaways
- Pot still arrack is made in batches in copper stills and is usually distilled twice.
- Column still arrack is made in a continuous still and comes off at a higher strength with a lighter flavour.
- Most Sri Lankan arracks are blends of pot and column distillate, with the proportions rarely printed on the label.
- Copper in either still removes sulphur notes from fermented toddy, which is why it is used.
- Pot-led arracks suit drinking neat, while column-led arracks suit soda, ginger beer and cocktails.
Pot still vs column still arrack: the short version
Pot still and column still arrack differ in weight, aroma and price. The toddy going in is the same. The still decides how much of the toddy's flavour survives the journey to spirit.
- →Pot still: batch process, lower strength off the still, fuller flavour, higher cost.
- →Column still: continuous process, higher strength, lighter flavour, lower cost.
- →Blend: the common middle path, tuned by the blender for each label.
How a pot still makes arrack
A pot still makes arrack one batch at a time. Fermented toddy is heated in a copper vessel, the alcohol-rich vapour rises through the neck, and a condenser turns it back to liquid. That first distillate is weak, so it is distilled a second time.
During the second run the distiller separates the first and last parts of the flow, which carry harsh or heavy compounds, and keeps the middle cut. Pot still arrack leaves the still at roughly 60 to 70 per cent alcohol and carries fruity, floral and slightly oily notes.
How a column still makes arrack
A column still makes arrack in a continuous stream. Toddy is fed in near the top of a tall column fitted with perforated plates while steam rises from the bottom. Alcohol is stripped out and concentrated plate by plate as it climbs.
Column still arrack comes off at a much higher strength, often roughly 85 to 95 per cent, and is correspondingly lighter. The design, often called a Coffey or patent still, is the same one that produces grain whisky and most light rum.
How the two arracks taste
Pot still and column still arrack are easy to tell apart side by side. The difference shows on the nose first, then in the texture.
- →Pot still arrack: ripe fruit, coconut blossom, a little nuttiness and a longer, warmer finish.
- →Column still arrack: clean, lightly sweet, faintly floral and quick to finish.
- →Aged pot still arrack: takes wood well and gains honey and dried fruit.
- →Aged column still arrack: stays light, with colour and soft spice from the vat.
Why Sri Lankan distillers blend both
Sri Lankan distillers blend pot and column arrack because each solves the other's weakness. Pot distillate alone can be heavy and expensive. Column distillate alone can be thin. Together they give a spirit that is characterful but easy to drink.
Labels rarely state the ratio. Phrases such as double distilled or pot distilled are the usual clue that a bottle leans towards the fuller style, while the cheapest categories add neutral spirit made on large columns from other raw materials.
Choosing a still style for how you drink
Choosing between pot-led and column-led arrack is a matter of what will be in the glass with it. A bar in Colombo or Galle will usually pour both styles, and asking the bartender which is which is a quick education.
Lankan Stays & Trails can include a guided comparison of arrack styles in an evening in Colombo for travellers who enjoy spirits.
- →Choose pot-led arrack if you drink it neat or over one piece of ice.
- →Choose a blend if you want one bottle for neat pours and for sours.
- →Choose light, column-led arrack if it will mostly meet soda, lime or ginger beer.
Frequently asked questions
What is pot still arrack?
Pot still arrack is coconut toddy distilled in batches in a copper pot still, normally twice. The method keeps more of the flavour compounds formed during fermentation, giving a fuller, fruitier and slightly oily spirit that is more costly to produce than column-distilled arrack.
What is a column still?
A column still is a tall, continuous still in which the fermented liquid flows down over a series of plates while steam rises through it. It produces a higher-strength, lighter spirit more efficiently than a pot still. It is also known as a Coffey, patent or continuous still.
Which is better, pot still or column still arrack?
Neither is better in every use. Pot still arrack has more character and suits sipping. Column still arrack is lighter and suits long drinks and cocktails. Most well-regarded Sri Lankan arracks combine the two, and the quality of the toddy and the ageing matter just as much.
Is all arrack distilled in copper?
Pot stills for arrack are copper, and column stills normally include copper sections. Copper reacts with sulphur compounds produced in fermentation and removes them from the vapour, which gives a cleaner spirit. Stainless steel is used for other parts of the plant.
Does double distilled arrack mean pot still?
Usually, in spirit. Double distilled on a Sri Lankan arrack label indicates a spirit that has been through two distillations, the pattern of pot distilling, and suggests a fuller style. It is a product name as much as a technical claim, so check the category wording too.
How strong is arrack when it comes off the still?
Pot still arrack leaves the still at roughly 60 to 70 per cent alcohol and column still arrack at roughly 85 to 95 per cent. Both are reduced with water before bottling, usually to somewhere between 33 and 40 per cent.