The island's finest stays are rarely the largest. A colonial tea bungalow in Dickoya or Bogawantalawa comes with a cook, a butler, and a fireplace for the evening, sleeps a family, and costs less than a suite in a chain hotel. Geoffrey Bawa's hotels — and the generation of architects that followed him — produced coastal properties that are still the reason some people come. Near the parks, tented camps put you inside the buffer zone and at the gate before anyone else.
Pacing is the other half of it. Luxury itineraries here use fewer bases and longer stays: three nights in the hills rather than one, a full day held back for nothing in particular, and transfers timed so you are not arriving at a beautiful hotel at ten at night with an hour to enjoy it.
The things that need arranging are arranged. Private after-hours access at certain sites, a table at the restaurants that book out weeks ahead, a helicopter transfer when the drive would swallow a day, an Ayurvedic doctor's consultation before a treatment programme rather than a spa menu.