Quick answer
Two weeks in Sri Lanka is easy for vegetarians and vegans on the standard route through Sigiriya, Kandy, the hill country, Yala and the south coast. Rice and curry is mostly vegetable-based and cooked in coconut milk, so many dishes are vegan by default. The main thing to check is Maldive fish, dried tuna flakes added to sambols and some vegetable curries. Tamil vegetarian restaurants, found in most towns, serve fully meat-free dosa, idli and rice meals.
Key takeaways
- Most Sri Lankan vegetable curries are cooked in coconut milk and contain no dairy, which makes them suitable for vegans.
- Maldive fish, dried and flaked tuna, is commonly added to coconut sambol and some vegetable dishes, and must be asked about.
- Plain hoppers and string hoppers are made from rice flour and coconut milk; egg hoppers contain a whole egg.
- Tamil vegetarian restaurants serve entirely meat-free and fish-free food and are found in Colombo, Kandy, the hill country and the north.
- Many Sri Lankan Buddhists eat vegetarian food on poya days, so meat-free meals are easy to find then.
Why Sri Lanka suits vegetarians and vegans
Sri Lanka suits vegetarians and vegans because its cooking begins with vegetables. A typical rice and curry lunch has rice, dhal and four to six other dishes, of which only one or two are fish or meat. Ask for the vegetable version, and the plate is simply filled with more of the rest.
The cooking fat is coconut oil and the liquid is coconut milk. Butter, cream and cheese are rare in traditional food, although ghee appears in some Tamil dishes and sweets, and curd is a popular dessert.
- →Dhal (parippu): red lentils in coconut milk, served with almost every meal.
- →Polos: young jackfruit curry, dark and meaty in texture.
- →Brinjal moju: fried aubergine pickle, sweet and sour.
- →Mallung: shredded greens with fresh coconut.
- →Kiribath: rice cooked in coconut milk, eaten at breakfast.
- →Cashew curry and beetroot curry: richer dishes found at better tables.
What to eat, stop by stop
The standard two-week route offers something different at each base. Around Sigiriya, a village lunch cooked over wood is almost entirely vegetable: ask for it without sambol containing fish. In Kandy, Tamil vegetarian restaurants near the centre serve dosa, idli and vadai from early morning.
The hill country grows the island's carrots, leeks, beans and potatoes, and Ella's small cafés are the most vegan-aware on the route, with cooking classes that can be run entirely meat-free. Near Yala, hotels are more traditional, so tell them in advance. On the south coast, Mirissa, Unawatuna and Galle Fort have cafés with clearly marked vegan menus.
A few useful words
A few words of Sinhala make the request clear in places where English is limited. Spellings vary, and pronunciation is forgiving. In Tamil-speaking areas, the word saivam, meaning vegetarian, is widely understood.
- →Elavalu witharai: vegetables only.
- →Mas epa, malu epa: no meat, no fish.
- →Umbalakada epa: no Maldive fish.
- →Biththara epa: no egg.
- →Kiri epa: no milk.
Hotels, drivers and long days
Hotels cope best with notice. Tell each one about dietary needs when booking, and again at check-in. A driver who knows the requirement will choose lunch stops accordingly, which matters on travelling days when the only option may be a roadside kitchen.
Vegans should carry snacks for early starts, since packed safari breakfasts lean on eggs and cheese sandwiches. Fresh fruit is everywhere: bananas, papaya, pineapple, mango in season and king coconut to drink. Choose home-style restaurants and Tamil vegetarian places for the widest choice; choose larger hotels when clear labelling matters more.
Planning a plant-based fortnight
A plant-based fortnight in Sri Lanka needs no change of route, only a little communication. The standard 14-day itinerary works as written, and Jaffna, with its strong Hindu vegetarian tradition, is a rewarding addition for those with time.
Lankan Stays & Trails can pass dietary requirements to every hotel and driver on the route before arrival, and arrange vegetarian cooking classes. The general guide to vegetarian and vegan food in Sri Lanka covers the dishes in more depth.
Frequently asked questions
Is Sri Lanka good for vegetarians?
Yes. Sri Lanka is one of the easiest countries in Asia for vegetarians. Rice and curry is mostly made of vegetable and lentil dishes, and Tamil vegetarian restaurants are common. The main thing to check is whether sambols and curries contain Maldive fish.
Is Sri Lankan food vegan friendly?
Largely, yes. Traditional curries are cooked in coconut milk and coconut oil, without dairy. Vegans need to ask about Maldive fish, egg in hoppers and rotis, ghee in some Tamil dishes and curd in desserts. Plain hoppers, string hoppers and dhal are usually vegan.
What is Maldive fish?
Maldive fish is tuna that has been boiled, smoked and sun-dried until hard, then flaked or pounded. It is used as a seasoning in Sri Lankan cooking, especially in coconut sambol. It is not always mentioned on menus, so vegetarians should ask for dishes without it.
Are hoppers vegan?
Plain hoppers are usually vegan, made from fermented rice flour and coconut milk. Egg hoppers have an egg cooked into the centre, and milk hoppers may contain extra coconut milk and sugar. String hoppers, steamed rice-flour noodles, are also normally vegan.
Can hotels in Sri Lanka cater for vegans?
Most can, with notice. Larger hotels label buffet dishes and will prepare vegan meals on request. Smaller guesthouses cook to order and are usually happy to adapt. Tell each hotel when booking and again on arrival, and mention Maldive fish specifically.
Where is the best vegetarian food in Sri Lanka?
Tamil vegetarian restaurants in Colombo, Kandy, the hill country and Jaffna offer the widest choice, with dosa, idli, vadai and rice meals. Ella, Mirissa and Galle Fort have many vegan-friendly cafés. Village lunches near Sigiriya are mostly vegetable-based.