A 5-day hill country itinerary for May to September

From roughly May to September the south-west monsoon brings moist air from the Indian Ocean, which drops much of its rain on the western and central slopes of the hills: Hatton, Nuwara Eliya, Horton Plains and the Adam's Peak area. Mist, drizzle and heavier showers are common, especially in June, July and August.

The eastern side of the hills, around Ella, Haputale and Bandarawela, lies in a partial rain shadow and is often much drier. Kandy, below the main ridge, sees mixed weather.

The practical lesson is to give more time to Ella and Haputale and less to Hatton and Horton Plains.

The recommended route spends one night in Kandy, one in Haputale or Nuwara Eliya and two in Ella. Day one drives to Kandy, roughly 3 to 4 hours, for the evening puja. Day two climbs into the hills: to Nuwara Eliya, roughly 2.5 to 3 hours, or on to Haputale, roughly 1.5 to 2 hours further.

Day three takes the train to Ella, from Nanu Oya or Haputale, and an afternoon at the Nine Arch Bridge. Day four is Little Adam's Peak at sunrise, Ravana Falls, which is at its fullest, and a cooking class or tea factory. Day five drives to the airport, roughly 6 to 7 hours.

If Horton Plains is a must, stay in Nuwara Eliya, go at dawn and accept that clouds may hide World's End.

Haputale makes a good alternative to Nuwara Eliya in these months, because it sits on the drier eastern edge. Lipton's Seat at dawn is more likely to be clear than World's End, and the short train from Haputale to Ella, roughly an hour, keeps day three relaxed.

Horton Plains remains open in the monsoon months, and the walk can be atmospheric in mist, with the cloud forest dripping and the grassland shining. But World's End's view is often hidden, and paths are muddy.

Go at opening, when the chance of a clear window is best, and bring a rain jacket and waterproof shoes. If the morning is heavy with rain, consider skipping it and spending the time in Ella.

The Kandy Esala Perahera, usually in July or August, is one of Asia's great festivals: nights of processions with drummers, dancers and caparisoned elephants. Dates shift each year with the lunar calendar.

If your trip overlaps, book Kandy hotels months ahead and expect higher prices. Seats along the route are sold for the main nights. The festival raises concerns about the elephants' welfare, which some visitors weigh before attending.

If you do not want the festival, avoid Kandy on those nights, because roads and hotels are very busy.

Pack a good rain jacket, quick-drying clothes, shoes with grip and long socks against leeches, which are common on wet paths. A small umbrella is useful in towns.

Mornings are often clearer than afternoons, so plan walks early and keep afternoons for tea factories, cafes and cooking classes.

Lankan Stays & Trails can watch the forecast and swap the order of days so the best weather falls on the walking days.

Travellers whose holidays fall in the northern summer, walkers happy with some mist, and families who want cool air in July and August are the route's natural audience.

Travellers who want a beach as well should pair the hills with the east coast, which is in its calm season, rather than the rough west.