Anuradhapura and Trincomalee in 5 days

The classic east coast five-day route pairs Sigiriya with Trincomalee. This one swaps Sigiriya for Anuradhapura, the island's first great capital, which is quieter, grander in scale and roughly the same distance from Trincomalee.

Anuradhapura's stupas, monasteries and the Sacred Bo Tree draw pilgrims from all over the island, and the city has a living, devotional atmosphere that the more touristic sites lack. Trincomalee adds a Hindu temple on a cliff, a deep natural harbour and some of the island's calmest summer beaches.

Choose this route if you have already seen Sigiriya, prefer quieter sites, or want a culture and beach trip in July or August.

Day one is the drive from the airport to Anuradhapura, roughly 4 to 5 hours, with a sunset walk to Ruwanwelisaya. Day two is the sacred city by bicycle, starting early at the Sacred Bo Tree and visiting the great stupas, Abhayagiri and the twin ponds, with a rest in the heat of the day.

Day three begins at Mihintale at dawn, roughly 20 minutes east, before the drive to Trincomalee, roughly 2.5 to 3 hours. Visit Koneswaram Temple on Swami Rock at sunset. Day four is a Pigeon Island snorkelling trip from Nilaveli in the morning and a beach afternoon.

Day five is a final swim, then roughly 5 to 6 hours to the airport for an evening flight.

Koneswaram Temple stands on Swami Rock above the sea, one of the most important Hindu shrines on the island. Visit at the evening puja, dress modestly and remove shoes. Fort Frederick, which you pass on the way up, still has a garrison and is home to spotted deer.

Nilaveli, roughly 30 minutes north, has a long, calm beach in season and boats to Pigeon Island National Park, where snorkellers see reef fish, corals and sometimes blacktip reef sharks. Uppuveli is closer to town and livelier.

Whales are sometimes seen off Trincomalee roughly May to September, though sightings are less predictable than off Mirissa in its season.

Trincomalee town itself is worth an hour: the busy market, the Hindu kovils painted in bright colours and the harbour views from Fort Frederick show a side of Sri Lanka that is Tamil, Muslim and Sinhalese at once, and quite different from the sacred city you have just left.

From May to September, the south-west monsoon brings rain and rough seas to the west and south coasts, while the east coast lies in a rain shadow, with dry weather and calm seas. This is when Trincomalee's beaches are at their best.

Anuradhapura is usually hot and dry in these months, so start early and rest at midday. From roughly October to January the north-east monsoon brings rain to Trincomalee, and the route works far less well.

In other months, choose a route with the beach on the west or south coast instead.

Pigeon Island's reef is fragile and heavily visited. Do not stand on or touch coral, use reef-safe sunscreen or cover up instead, and keep a respectful distance from turtles and sharks.

Boats can be busy in the late morning, so an early trip is quieter and the water often clearer. Life jackets are usually required for snorkellers.

The route suits summer travellers, those on a second visit and anyone who prefers devotional sites to busy ones. Couples and families both enjoy Nilaveli's calm sea in season.

Lankan Stays & Trails can arrange a guide in Anuradhapura and boats to Pigeon Island, and adjust the plan if you prefer Sigiriya instead.

Families with young children should note the long drives on day one and day five, roughly 4 to 6 hours each. Breaking them with stops every two hours, and keeping days two to four gentle, makes the route far easier for children.