Quick answer
Cycling around Kandy is best done in the countryside outside the city, on guided half-day rides of 15 to 30 kilometres. The most rewarding routes are the lanes linking the Embekke, Lankatilaka and Gadaladeniya temples west of the city, the roads along the Mahaweli River, and the open Dumbara valley towards the Victoria reservoir. Central Kandy is too congested to cycle safely. Start by 7 in the morning, expect short steep climbs, and use an operator that provides a support vehicle, helmets and geared bicycles.
Key takeaways
- Guided cycling tours near Kandy typically cover 15 to 30 kilometres in three to four hours.
- The lanes between the three temples west of Kandy make a ride of about 15 kilometres with several short climbs.
- Kandy sits at about 500 metres, and surrounding roads rise and fall by 100 to 300 metres over short distances.
- Traffic in Sri Lanka drives on the left, and buses on main roads give cyclists very little room.
- The driest months for cycling around Kandy are January to April.
Where to ride, and where not to
Cycling around Kandy begins with accepting where not to ride. The city centre, the Peradeniya road and the A9 towards Matale are crowded with buses, lorries and tuk-tuks, and have no cycle lanes. Riding them is unpleasant and risky.
The good cycling near Kandy starts five to fifteen kilometres from the centre. Guided tours usually drive riders and bicycles out of town before the ride begins. From there the roads are narrow, surfaced or gravel, and quiet enough to ride two abreast.
The best routes
The best cycling routes near Kandy follow river valleys and village lanes. Each of the rides below can be done in a morning. Distances are approximate and depend on the start point chosen by the operator.
Gradients around Kandy are the main thing to consider. None of these routes is flat. Climbs are short, often under a kilometre, but can be steep, and descents on rough surfaces need care.
- →Three temples loop: 15 to 20 kilometres; paddy fields, three medieval temples.
- →Mahaweli river ride: 20 to 25 kilometres; river banks and hanging bridges north of the city.
- →Dumbara valley and Victoria reservoir: 25 to 30 kilometres; open country and lake views.
- →Hantana tea trails: 10 to 15 kilometres; steep estate tracks for mountain bikers.
The three temples by bicycle
The three temples route is the classic ride near Kandy. It starts near Pilimathalawa and follows lanes to Gadaladeniya, Lankatilaka and Embekke, with stops to visit each. The countryside between them is a patchwork of rice, coconut and home gardens.
Cycling the three temples takes three to four hours including visits. There are two noticeable climbs, one to Lankatilaka's rock and one before Embekke. Carry a sarong or wear long shorts so that you can enter the temples, and bring small notes for the entry fees.
Guided tours and bike hire
Guided cycling tours are the practical way to ride near Kandy. A good operator supplies a geared mountain or hybrid bicycle, a helmet, water, a guide who rides with you and a support vehicle that follows. Prices are roughly US$35 to US$60 per person for a half-day.
Casual bicycle hire in Kandy is limited. A few guesthouses rent basic bikes, which are fine for a short spin on a quiet lane and unsuitable for hills. Lankan Stays & Trails arranges rides through operators whose bicycles and vehicles we have checked.
- →Ask what kind of bicycle is supplied and whether it has working gears.
- →Confirm that a support vehicle follows the group.
- →Check that helmets are provided in your size.
- →Ask about group size; six to eight riders per guide is reasonable.
Safety, weather and fitness
Safety when cycling around Kandy depends on route choice and timing. Start early to avoid heat and school traffic, ride in single file where roads are busy, and assume that vehicles will not give way. Village dogs sometimes chase bicycles and usually stop if you slow down.
The weather around Kandy affects cycling more than most activities. Morning temperatures of 20 to 24°C rise to 30°C by midday, with high humidity. Afternoon thunderstorms are common in April, May, October and November. A moderate level of fitness is enough for the standard rides.
- →Start by 7 and finish before 11.
- →Drink at least a litre of water on a half-day ride.
- →Wear gloves and closed shoes; sunscreen on arms and neck.
- →Avoid riding in thunderstorms and at dusk.
Who will enjoy it
Cycling near Kandy suits active travellers who want to see ordinary rural life and stretch their legs between long drives. Teenagers enjoy it, and confident children from about ten can manage the easier routes with a support vehicle close by.
Cycling is less suitable for anyone uneasy in traffic or unused to hills. Travellers on a one-night stop will not have time. Those with two or three nights in Kandy will find a morning ride one of the most refreshing things they do there.
Frequently asked questions
Is Kandy good for cycling?
The countryside around Kandy is very good for cycling, with quiet lanes, villages and temples. The city itself is not, because of heavy traffic and steep, narrow roads. Most rides begin with a short transfer out of town.
How much does a cycling tour near Kandy cost?
A guided half-day cycling tour near Kandy typically costs US$35 to US$60 per person, including the bicycle, helmet, guide, water and a support vehicle. Entrance fees to temples and hotel transfers may be charged separately.
Can you rent a bicycle in Kandy?
Bicycle rental in Kandy is limited to a few guesthouses and small shops, usually with simple single-speed or old geared bikes. For anything more than a short flat ride, a guided tour with properly maintained bicycles is the better option.
How hard is cycling around Kandy?
Cycling around Kandy is moderately demanding. Routes are short, at 15 to 30 kilometres, but include repeated climbs and descents and high humidity. Anyone who cycles occasionally at home will manage, and a support vehicle can carry tired riders.
What is the best time of year to cycle near Kandy?
January to April is the best time to cycle near Kandy, with the driest weather. June to September is also workable, with wind and passing showers. October and November are the wettest months, and rides are often interrupted by rain.
Can children cycle around Kandy?
Confident children from about ten years old can ride the easier routes near Kandy, such as the three temples lanes, with a guide and support vehicle. Operators can sometimes provide smaller bicycles or child seats if asked in advance.