Quick answer
The best things to do in Kandy are the evening puja at the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic at roughly half past six, a walk around Kandy Lake, a morning at the Royal Botanic Gardens in Peradeniya about six kilometres away, and the view from Arthur's Seat or the Bahirawakanda Buddha. With a second day, add the three medieval temples of Embekke, Lankatilaka and Gadaladeniya, the Ceylon Tea Museum at Hantana or a half-day trip to Ambuluwawa. One full day covers the essentials; two days is comfortable.
Key takeaways
- The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic holds three pujas a day, at roughly 5.30 in the morning, 9.30 in the morning and 6.30 in the evening.
- Kandy Lake was created in 1807 by the last king, Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe, and the path around it is about 3.4 kilometres long.
- The Royal Botanic Gardens at Peradeniya cover roughly 60 hectares and need two to three hours, ideally before 11 in the morning.
- Kandy sits at roughly 500 metres, so days are warm at 26 to 30°C and evenings are mild, with the driest weather from January to March.
- Kandy has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988 and hosts the Esala Perahera over about ten nights in July or August.
The best things to do in Kandy, in order
The best things to do in Kandy fall into a clear order of priority. The city's reason for being is the Sri Dalada Maligawa, the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, and almost everything else of interest lies within three kilometres of its gate. The list below is ranked by how much a first-time visitor would miss each one.
Kandy's top five can be done in one long day. The second five need a second day or a choice. Nothing on the list requires a guide, although the temple and the three medieval temples are richer with one.
- →1. Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic at puja time: one to two hours.
- →2. Kandy Lake on foot, best before 8 in the morning or after 5: 45 to 60 minutes.
- →3. Royal Botanic Gardens, Peradeniya: two to three hours.
- →4. Arthur's Seat viewpoint or the Bahirawakanda Buddha: 30 to 45 minutes each.
- →5. A Kandyan dance performance at about 5 in the afternoon: one hour.
- →6. Embekke, Lankatilaka and Gadaladeniya temples: half a day.
- →7. Udawattakele Forest Sanctuary behind the temple: one to two hours.
- →8. Ceylon Tea Museum at Hantana or a working tea factory: one to two hours.
- →9. The central market and the old streets: one hour.
- →10. The royal palace buildings, the National Museum and the British Garrison Cemetery: one to two hours.
The Temple of the Tooth and the sacred quarter
The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic is the one thing in Kandy nobody should skip. The relic, a tooth of the Buddha said to have reached Sri Lanka in the fourth century, is kept inside seven nested gold caskets in the upper shrine. Visitors do not see the tooth itself. During a puja the shrine doors open and the outer casket is visible as the queue files past.
The sacred quarter around the temple holds more than most visitors realise. The same ticket usually admits you to the Raja Tusker hall and the International Buddhist Museum behind the shrine. Next door stand the four devales, the royal Audience Hall where the Kandyan Convention was signed in 1815, and the National Museum in the former queens' quarters.
- →Arrive 30 to 45 minutes before a puja; the evening one is the busiest.
- →Cover shoulders and knees, and expect to leave shoes at the counter.
- →The dawn puja at roughly 5.30 is the quietest and the most local.
The lake, the gardens and the forest
Kandy Lake is the city's lung and its easiest pleasure. The full circuit is about 3.4 kilometres on a mostly shaded pavement, with cormorants, pelicans and water monitors along the edge. The southern shore has more traffic, so many walkers go only along the temple side and back.
The Royal Botanic Gardens at Peradeniya are the best half-day in the Kandy area for most travellers. They lie in a loop of the Mahaweli River, about six kilometres west of the centre, and are flat, shaded and easy at any age. Udawattakele Forest Sanctuary, by contrast, is a real forest of roughly 100 hectares that begins a ten-minute walk from the temple.
- →Peradeniya: go at opening and leave before the midday heat.
- →Udawattakele: wear closed shoes, and carry leech socks after rain.
- →The lake: clockwise from the temple gives the best light in the late afternoon.
Viewpoints, museums and small sights
Kandy's viewpoints are short climbs with large rewards. Arthur's Seat, on Rajapihilla Mawatha above the southern shore, looks straight down on the lake, the temple roofs and the forest behind. The white Bahirawakanda Buddha, roughly 27 metres tall, sits on the opposite hill and is lit at night.
The smaller sights of Kandy fill the gaps between the large ones. The British Garrison Cemetery, the Commonwealth War Cemetery on the Peradeniya road, the Ceylon Tea Museum in a 1925 factory at Hantana and the municipal central market each take under an hour. Pick by interest and do not try to collect them all.
The best day trips from Kandy
The best day trips from Kandy are the short ones. Within an hour of the city are the three medieval temples to the west, the Ambuluwawa tower near Gampola to the south, the spice gardens and Aluvihare Rock Temple at Matale to the north, and the Victoria reservoir to the east. Each makes a relaxed half-day.
Longer day trips from Kandy are possible and often disappointing. Sigiriya is two and a half to three hours each way, Nuwara Eliya about the same, and the nearest safari parks are no closer. These places deserve a night of their own. Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage, about an hour and a quarter west, is popular and needs an honest look at its welfare record before you go.
- →Choose the three temples loop if you like art, carving and quiet countryside.
- →Choose Ambuluwawa if you want a view and do not mind heights.
- →Choose the Knuckles Range if you want a full day of walking.
- →Choose Matale if you are driving on to Dambulla and Sigiriya anyway.
How long to spend and how to order the days
One night in Kandy gives you an evening puja and a morning at the gardens, which is the minimum that makes sense. Two nights add a half-day trip, the viewpoints and time to walk the town. Three nights suit travellers who want the Knuckles Range, a cooking class or simply a slower pace.
The order of a Kandy day matters because of heat and traffic. Do the outdoor things early, rest or visit museums in the early afternoon, and keep the hours from 5 to 8 in the evening for the dance performance, the puja and the lake. Roads in and out of the centre clog between roughly 7 and 9 in the morning and 4 and 7 in the evening.
- →One day: gardens in the morning, town after lunch, dance show and puja at dusk.
- →Two days: add the three temples loop and a viewpoint at sunset.
- →Three days: add the Knuckles Range or Ambuluwawa and a class or a market morning.
What to skip, and what to be careful about
Kandy has a few stops that sell better than they deliver. Gem "museums" and many spice gardens are shops with a free tour attached, and drivers are paid commission to bring you. Go only if you want to buy. Elephant rides offered on the roads towards Pinnawala are best refused on welfare grounds.
Planning Kandy around the calendar avoids the commonest disappointments. On poya (full moon) days the temple is crowded with pilgrims and alcohol is not sold. During the Esala Perahera, hotel prices rise sharply and streets close from mid-afternoon. Lankan Stays & Trails plans Kandy as one or two nights between the Cultural Triangle and the tea country, with a private driver-guide and timed temple visits.
Frequently asked questions
What is Kandy best known for?
Kandy is best known for the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, which houses Sri Lanka's most venerated Buddhist relic, and for the Esala Perahera, a procession of drummers, dancers and elephants held over about ten nights in July or August. It was also the last independent Sinhalese kingdom, falling to the British in 1815.
How many days do you need in Kandy?
One full day and one night cover the temple, the lake and the botanic gardens. Two days allow a half-day trip to the three medieval temples or Ambuluwawa and a slower pace. Three days are worthwhile only if you plan to hike in the Knuckles Range or use Kandy as a base.
Is Kandy worth visiting?
Kandy is worth visiting for its temple, its history and its position between the Cultural Triangle and the tea country. It is a busy city, not a quiet hill town, so travellers who expect calm streets can be disappointed. Staying in the hills just outside the centre solves most of that.
What can you do in Kandy for free?
Walking around Kandy Lake, climbing to Arthur's Seat, browsing the central market, visiting the four devales and the British Garrison Cemetery (a donation is welcome) and watching the dusk crowds at the temple gate cost nothing. The Commonwealth War Cemetery is also free to enter.
What is the best time of day to visit the Temple of the Tooth?
The evening puja at roughly half past six is the most atmospheric, with drumming and the largest crowds. The dawn puja at roughly 5.30 is far quieter. Outside puja times the shrine room stays closed, so a visit at midday shows the building but not the ceremony.
Is Kandy walkable?
The centre of Kandy is compact, and the temple, the lake, the market and the museums are all within 15 minutes of each other on foot. Pavements are narrow and traffic is heavy, and the viewpoints involve steep climbs. Tuk-tuks are cheap for anything further than a kilometre.
What should I avoid in Kandy?
Avoid elephant rides, gem shops recommended by a stranger or a driver, and anyone who tells you the temple is closed and offers another tour. Avoid driving across the centre between 4 and 7 in the evening, and avoid arriving at the temple in shorts or a sleeveless top.