Fishing harbours on Sri Lanka's south coast

Fishing has shaped Sri Lanka's south coast for centuries, and it remains the main livelihood in many coastal villages. The harbours, beaches and markets show daily life that most beach visitors never see, from the arrival of the boats to the sale of the catch and the mending of nets.

Visiting fishing harbours also helps explain the coast. The boats, the fish curries on restaurant menus and the 2004 tsunami's impact on fishing families all make more sense after an early morning at the harbour.

Beruwala, at the western end of the south coast, has a large fishing harbour and the busiest fish auction on the south-west coast. At dawn, boats unload tuna, seer fish, sharks and reef fish onto the harbour floor, and buyers bid loudly. It is noisy, wet and fascinating.

Galle's harbour lies beside the fort, and a roadside fish market near the Old Gate sells the morning catch on simple stalls. It is smaller and easier to visit than Beruwala, and combines well with a morning walk on the ramparts.

Mirissa's harbour, at the western end of the bay, is shared by fishing boats and whale-watching vessels. Early in the morning, fishing boats unload while whale-watching passengers board, an interesting contrast between the coast's old and new economies.

Further east, Dondra, Dikwella and Kudawella have harbours for multi-day boats that fish far offshore for tuna, sailfish and other large species. The harbours are busy and colourful, and less visited than Mirissa.

On quieter beaches, especially around Tangalle, crews still use beach seines, known as madel. A large net is set from a boat, and two teams on the beach haul it in by hand over an hour or more, with the catch sorted on the sand. Visitors are sometimes invited to help pull.

Traditional outrigger canoes, or oruwa, are still used in some villages, and the stilt fishermen of Koggala and Ahangama perch on poles in the shallows. Many stilt fishermen now pose for tips rather than fish, so expect to pay for photographs.

Fishing harbours are workplaces, and visitors should stay out of the way of boats, nets and the auction. Ask before photographing people, and accept a refusal politely. Wear closed shoes, as floors are wet and slippery.

Fishing families often have a hard and dangerous life, and many lost relatives and boats in the 2004 tsunami. A respectful, curious approach is welcomed, while treating people as a spectacle is not.

A harbour visit fits best as an early morning outing before breakfast. From Galle, the fish market by the fort is a short walk. From Bentota, Beruwala harbour is about 15 minutes away. From Mirissa, the harbour is at the end of the beach, and Dondra and Dikwella are short drives east.

Lankan Stays & Trails arranges early morning harbour visits with guides who know the fishing communities, which makes it easier to understand what is happening and to meet people respectfully.