Quick answer
Getting around Kandy is easiest on foot in the centre and by tuk-tuk beyond it. The temple, lake, market and museums lie within about a kilometre of each other. Tuk-tuks cost roughly a dollar for a short hop and three to four dollars to Peradeniya, and ride-hailing apps give fixed fares. Frequent buses run to Peradeniya, Katugastota and Pilimathalawa from the stands near the clock tower. Avoid travelling by road between 7 and 9 in the morning and 4 and 7 in the evening, when the centre gridlocks.
Key takeaways
- The main sights of central Kandy lie within about one kilometre of the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic.
- Kandy's traffic peaks from about 7 to 9 in the morning and 4 to 7 in the evening on weekdays.
- A tuk-tuk from central Kandy to the botanic gardens at Peradeniya takes 20 to 30 minutes outside peak hours.
- Kandy railway station is about one kilometre from the lake, a 15-minute walk or a five-minute tuk-tuk ride.
- Kandy has several separate bus stands, all within a few minutes' walk of the clock tower.
How Kandy is laid out
Kandy's layout is simple once seen from above. The lake lies at the centre, with the temple and palace on its northern shore. The commercial town stretches west from the temple to the clock tower, the market and the railway station.
The hills around Kandy hold most of the hotels and several sights. Rajapihilla and Hantana rise to the south, Bahirawakanda to the west and Udawattakele to the north-east. Peradeniya, with the botanic gardens and university, is six kilometres south-west along a single busy road.
On foot
Walking is the best way to get around central Kandy. From the temple it is ten minutes to the market, five to the National Museum and two to the lake. The streets are level, and the main ones have pavements.
The drawbacks of walking in Kandy are crowding and fumes. Pavements on Dalada Veediya are narrow, and buses pass close. Crossings are few, so use the signals at the main junctions. The hills are another matter: lanes to the viewpoints and hill guesthouses are steep and often unlit.
- →Temple to market: ten minutes.
- →Temple to railway station: 15 to 20 minutes.
- →Lake circuit: 45 to 60 minutes.
- →Lake to Arthur's Seat: 15 to 20 minutes uphill.
Tuk-tuks and ride-hailing apps
Tuk-tuks are everywhere in Kandy and are the practical choice for anything uphill or beyond a kilometre. Fares are agreed before you get in. Drivers at the temple and station quote higher than those hailed on the street.
Ride-hailing apps work in Kandy for tuk-tuks and cars, and show the fare in advance. They are most reliable in the centre and at ordinary hours. In the hills and late at night, drivers can be scarce, so ask your hotel to call someone it knows.
- →Short hop in the centre: about US$1.
- →Centre to a hill hotel: US$2 to US$4.
- →Centre to Peradeniya: US$3 to US$4.
- →Half-day hire with waiting: US$10 to US$20.
Buses and trains
Buses in Kandy are cheap, frequent and crowded. Services to Peradeniya, Pilimathalawa and Kadugannawa run every few minutes along the Colombo road. Others go north to Katugastota and Matale, and east to Digana. Tell the conductor your stop and pay on board.
Trains are useful for a few local journeys from Kandy. Peradeniya Junction, Kadugannawa and Gampola are all on the line, and the short rides are scenic. Long-distance trains to Colombo and into the hill country leave from the main station, where reserved seats should be booked well ahead.
Traffic and timing
Traffic is the defining feature of getting around Kandy. A one-way system loops around the lake, and the roads to Peradeniya and Katugastota carry buses nose to tail. In the peaks, the six kilometres to the botanic gardens can take 45 minutes.
Timing your movements in Kandy matters more than your choice of vehicle. Go out before 7.30 or after 9.30 in the morning, and settle within walking distance of the temple before 4. Lankan Stays & Trails schedules transfers in and out of Kandy for mid-morning or early afternoon for this reason.
- →Worst hours: 7 to 9 and 4 to 7 on weekdays.
- →Easier: Sundays and the middle of the day.
- →Perahera season: roads on the route close from mid-afternoon.
- →Poya days: heavy pilgrim traffic around the temple.
With a private driver
A private driver is the most comfortable way to get around Kandy for visitors on a longer tour. The driver knows the back routes, waits at each stop and keeps luggage secure. The cost within an island-wide itinerary is about US$50 to US$90 a day.
Even with a driver, some parts of Kandy are better on foot. Have the driver drop you at the temple and collect you after the lake walk, since parking near the sacred area is limited. Self-drive is not advisable in Kandy's traffic for anyone unfamiliar with local driving habits.
Frequently asked questions
Is Kandy a walkable city?
The centre of Kandy is walkable. The temple, lake, market, museums and main street are within about a kilometre of each other on flat ground. The surrounding hills, where many hotels and viewpoints are, are steep and better reached by tuk-tuk.
How much is a tuk-tuk in Kandy?
A short tuk-tuk ride within central Kandy costs about a dollar in local currency, a trip to a hill hotel two to four dollars, and the botanic gardens three to four. Agree the fare first, or use a ride-hailing app for a fixed price.
How do I get from Kandy to Peradeniya Botanical Gardens?
The Royal Botanic Gardens at Peradeniya are six kilometres from Kandy. A tuk-tuk takes 20 to 30 minutes and costs three to four dollars. Buses run constantly from near the clock tower and stop at the gate for a few cents.
How bad is traffic in Kandy?
Traffic in Kandy is heavy for a city of its size, because a few narrow roads carry all the through movement. Journeys of five or six kilometres can take 45 minutes in the morning and evening peaks. Outside those hours it moves reasonably well.
Do ride-hailing apps work in Kandy?
Ride-hailing apps operate in Kandy and offer tuk-tuks and cars at fixed fares. Coverage is good in the centre during the day. In the outlying hills and late in the evening there may be few drivers, so have a back-up arranged through your hotel.
How far is Kandy railway station from the Temple of the Tooth?
Kandy railway station is about 1.3 kilometres from the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic. The walk takes 15 to 20 minutes along level streets, and a tuk-tuk about five minutes. With luggage, a tuk-tuk is the easier choice.