Quick answer
Ratgama Lake is a coastal lagoon at Dodanduwa, roughly 6 to 8 kilometres south of Hikkaduwa and 15 kilometres north of Galle. A boat trip of one to two hours passes mangrove islands, birdlife and the Island Hermitage of Polgasduwa, a Buddhist forest monastery founded in 1911 by the German-born monk Nyanatiloka, which can be seen from the water but is not open to casual visits. On the sea side of Dodanduwa, the Kumarakanda Raja Maha Viharaya sits at the top of a stairway above the coast road.
Key takeaways
- Ratgama Lake lies at Dodanduwa, roughly 6 to 8 kilometres south of Hikkaduwa and 15 kilometres north of Galle.
- The Island Hermitage at Polgasduwa was founded in 1911 by Nyanatiloka, one of the first Europeans ordained as a Buddhist monk.
- The hermitage is a place of meditation for monks and is not a tourist sight, so boats pass it at a respectful distance.
- A boat trip on Ratgama Lake takes one to two hours and is best early in the morning for birds.
- Kumarakanda Raja Maha Viharaya at Dodanduwa is reached by a flight of steps rising from the coast road.
What Ratgama Lake and Dodanduwa are
Ratgama Lake is a brackish lagoon behind the village of Dodanduwa, between Hikkaduwa and Galle, fed by streams from the low hills and linked to the sea. Mangroves line much of the shore, small islands dot the water, and fishermen still set nets from narrow outrigger canoes.
Dodanduwa itself is a fishing village with a busy harbour, a hill temple and a long history as a coastal settlement. Most travellers drive straight through it on the way to Galle. A few hours here show a gentler, slower side of the coast road.
The Island Hermitage at Polgasduwa
The Island Hermitage of Polgasduwa stands on a wooded island in Ratgama Lake. It was founded in 1911 by Nyanatiloka, a German violinist who became one of the first Europeans to be ordained as a Theravada Buddhist monk. Over the next century it became known internationally as a place where foreign monks could train and meditate.
The hermitage is still a working monastery, quiet and inward-looking. It is not open for casual tourist visits, and boats generally pass at a distance. Serious meditators can sometimes arrange a stay by writing ahead, but day visitors should simply look from the water and keep voices low.
- →Founded: 1911, by the monk Nyanatiloka.
- →Purpose: meditation and monastic training, not tourism.
- →For visitors: view from the boat, without landing.
A boat trip on Ratgama Lake
A boat trip on Ratgama Lake usually lasts one to two hours, in a small motorboat or a paddled canoe. The route threads through mangrove channels, past small islands and fishing stakes, and along the shore of the hermitage island.
The lagoon is rich in birdlife. Kingfishers, herons, egrets, cormorants and fish eagles are common, and monitor lizards bask on the banks. The calmest water and the best birdlife come in the first hours after sunrise, before the wind and the heat rise.
Arrange the boat through your hotel or driver, or at a jetty near the bridge on the coast road. Agree the price and the route before setting off, and ask for a quiet engine or a paddled boat if birds are the priority.
- →Duration: one to two hours.
- →Best time: early morning, from about 6.30am.
- →Cost: roughly US$15 to US$30 for the boat, confirmed beforehand.
Kumarakanda temple and the harbour
Kumarakanda Raja Maha Viharaya sits on a low hill on the sea side of the coast road at Dodanduwa, reached by a long flight of steps from the road. The temple has an image house with old murals and statues, and the top of the stairs gives a view over the coast and the harbour.
Below the hill, Dodanduwa's fishing harbour is busiest early in the morning, when boats unload their catch. Visitors are welcome to watch from the edges, as long as they stay out of the way of the work and ask before photographing people.
- →Climb: a few minutes up the steps from the road.
- →Dress: shoulders and knees covered, shoes off at the shrine.
- →Harbour: best between about 6am and 8am.
Fitting Dodanduwa into a south coast trip
Ratgama Lake and Dodanduwa make a calm morning from a base in Hikkaduwa, Galle or Unawatuna, all within 15 to 30 minutes. Combine an early boat trip with Kumarakanda temple, then continue south to Galle for lunch.
Lankan Stays & Trails arranges lagoon boat trips here for travellers who want birdlife without the crowds of the busier rivers further north. It works especially well for a first morning after arriving on the coast.
Frequently asked questions
Can you visit the Island Hermitage at Dodanduwa?
Not as a casual visitor. The Island Hermitage at Polgasduwa is a working Buddhist monastery for meditation and training. Boats on Ratgama Lake pass it at a respectful distance. Serious practitioners can sometimes request a stay by writing to the monastery well in advance.
Where is Ratgama Lake?
Ratgama Lake is a coastal lagoon at Dodanduwa, roughly 6 to 8 kilometres south of Hikkaduwa and about 15 kilometres north of Galle. The A2 coast road crosses its outlet near the village, and boats leave from jetties near the bridge.
How much does a boat trip on Ratgama Lake cost?
A private boat trip of one to two hours usually costs roughly US$15 to US$30 for the boat, depending on its size, the route and the season. Agree the price and duration before you set off. Hotels and drivers can book a reliable boatman.
What birds can you see on Ratgama Lake?
Common sightings include kingfishers, grey and purple herons, egrets, cormorants, darters and brahminy kites, with fish eagles seen at times. Monitor lizards are frequent along the banks. Early morning gives the best birdlife and the calmest water.
Is Ratgama Lake worth visiting from Hikkaduwa?
Yes, for a quiet morning. Ratgama Lake is 15 to 20 minutes from Hikkaduwa, far less busy than the Madu River near Bentota, and the boat trip passes mangroves, islands and the hermitage. It suits birdwatchers, photographers and anyone wanting a calm break from the beach.
What is Kumarakanda temple?
Kumarakanda Raja Maha Viharaya is a Buddhist temple on a low hill at Dodanduwa, reached by a flight of steps from the coast road. It has an image house with murals and statues and a view over the sea. Modest dress is required and shoes come off at the shrine.