Quick answer
Sri Lankan milk wine uses a lot of sugar, typically 400 to 500 g per 750 ml bottle of arrack. Many recipes caramelise a quarter to a half of it in a dry pan until deep amber, then dissolve it in water or citrus juice. The caramel gives colour and a burnt-sugar depth, while the remaining sugar gives sweetness and body. Sugar also helps preserve the drink. It can be reduced a little, but very low-sugar milk wine tastes harsher and keeps less well.
Key takeaways
- Milk wine typically uses 400 to 500 g of sugar per bottle of arrack.
- A quarter to a half of the sugar is often caramelised for colour and depth.
- Sugar gives sweetness, body and helps the drink keep.
- Caramel must be handled carefully, as hot sugar burns badly.
- Sugar can be reduced a little, but very low-sugar milk wine is harsher.
What sugar does
Sugar does several jobs in milk wine. Most obviously, it sweetens, balancing the acid of the citrus and the heat of the arrack. Milk wine is meant to be a sweet drink, closer to a liqueur than a wine.
Sugar also adds body. A generous syrup gives milk wine a slightly thicker feel that clings to the glass, and this body is part of its silky texture.
Finally, sugar helps preservation. Together with alcohol and acid, it makes the drink inhospitable to spoilage organisms, which is one reason milk wine keeps for months.
- →Sweetness: balances acid and alcohol.
- →Body: gives a slightly thick feel.
- →Keeping: helps preserve the drink.
How much sugar
Recipes typically use 400 to 500 g of sugar per 750 ml bottle of arrack. Some older recipes use more, giving a very sweet, syrupy milk wine. Some modern cooks use a little less.
The right amount depends on taste and on the other ingredients. More citrus calls for more sugar to balance it; brandy, which is a little sweeter than arrack, may need slightly less.
White granulated sugar is the usual choice. Some families add a little brown sugar or kithul treacle for depth.
Sugar should be fully dissolved before the milk goes in. Undissolved crystals can settle at the bottom of the pot and end up in the curds, which wastes sugar and leaves the finished drink less sweet than intended. Warm the syrup gently and stir until it is completely clear.
Making the caramel
Many recipes caramelise part of the sugar, typically a quarter to a half. Put the sugar in a heavy, dry pan over a medium heat. As it melts, swirl the pan gently rather than stirring. When it turns deep amber, take it off the heat.
Carefully add hot water or citrus juice to the caramel. It will spit and steam violently, so stand back and pour slowly. Stir until the caramel dissolves into a smooth syrup. Add the remaining sugar and stir until dissolved.
Caramel burns very quickly and hot sugar causes serious burns. Keep children away from the stove and never touch the caramel.
- →Pan: heavy, dry.
- →Heat: medium, swirl, do not stir.
- →Colour: deep amber.
- →Safety: add liquid slowly, stand back.
Caramel and colour
Caramel is the main source of milk wine's golden colour. The more sugar you caramelise and the darker you take it, the deeper the colour. A pale caramel gives straw gold; a dark caramel gives deep amber.
Taking caramel too far gives a bitter, burnt taste. Stop at deep amber, before it smokes. Some families like a slightly bitter edge, which balances the sweetness, but a burnt caramel spoils the batch.
Families who skip caramel make a pale, citrus-led milk wine. It is equally traditional in some homes.
- →Pale caramel: straw gold.
- →Dark caramel: deep amber.
- →Too far: bitter and burnt.
Making a less sweet milk wine
Some cooks today prefer a less sweet milk wine. Reducing sugar by around a fifth usually works well, giving a drink that is still smooth and keeps well.
Cutting sugar much further makes milk wine taste harsher, as the sweetness no longer balances the citrus and alcohol. It may also keep less well.
An alternative is to keep the sugar but increase the citrus and spice, so the drink tastes less sweet without being harsh.
- →Reduce: by around a fifth.
- →Avoid: very low sugar.
- →Alternative: more citrus and spice.
Brown sugar, treacle and honey
Some families add a little brown sugar for a toffee note, or kithul treacle, the syrup from the kithul palm, for a deep, smoky sweetness. Kithul treacle is a distinctly Sri Lankan touch.
A few recipes add honey. It gives a floral sweetness but can make the drink slightly cloudy.
Lankan Stays & Trails can point visitors to markets in Colombo and the hill country where kithul treacle is sold, a useful find for anyone planning to make milk wine at home.
- →Brown sugar: toffee note.
- →Kithul treacle: smoky, Sri Lankan.
- →Honey: floral, may cloud.
Frequently asked questions
How much sugar is in milk wine?
Typically 400 to 500 g per 750 ml bottle of arrack, with part of it caramelised. Milk wine is a sweet drink, and the sugar also gives body and helps it keep.
Why is caramel used in milk wine?
Caramel gives milk wine its golden colour and a burnt-sugar depth that balances the sweetness. Many recipes caramelise a quarter to a half of the sugar. Families who skip it make a paler milk wine.
How do I make caramel for milk wine?
Melt sugar in a heavy, dry pan over medium heat, swirling rather than stirring, until deep amber. Take it off the heat and slowly add hot water or citrus juice, standing back as it spits. Stir until smooth.
Can I make milk wine less sweet?
Yes. Reduce the sugar by around a fifth. Cutting much more makes the drink harsher and may affect keeping. Increasing citrus and spice can also make it taste less sweet.
Can I use kithul treacle in milk wine?
Yes. Some families add a little kithul treacle, the syrup of the kithul palm, for a deep, smoky sweetness. It is a distinctly Sri Lankan touch. Use it alongside sugar rather than replacing it entirely.
What happens if the caramel burns?
Burnt caramel gives a bitter, acrid taste that spoils the milk wine. If it smokes or smells burnt, discard it and start again. Stop at deep amber. It is better to lose a little sugar than a whole batch.