Quick answer
The best places to visit around Kurunegala are Ethagala, the Elephant Rock above town with its white Buddha; Kurunegala lake; Ridi Vihara, the Silver Temple, with its cave shrine and Dutch tiles; the Arankele forest monastery; the twelfth-century ruins of Panduwasnuwara; the old capital of Dambadeniya; and Yapahuwa's lion staircase, roughly an hour north. Most can be combined with the drive between Colombo and the Cultural Triangle.
Key takeaways
- Kurunegala is roughly two to three hours from Colombo and roughly two from Sigiriya.
- Ethagala gives the best view over the town and lake.
- Yapahuwa is the area's showpiece and roughly an hour's drive north.
- Arankele is one of Sri Lanka's most peaceful forest monasteries.
- Kurunegala itself was a royal capital in the late thirteenth and early fourteenth centuries.
Kurunegala town, Ethagala and the lake
Kurunegala is the capital of the North Western Province and a busy market town. Its skyline is defined by huge rounded rocks, each named after an animal. The largest, Ethagala, the Elephant Rock, has a road almost to the top and a giant white seated Buddha on its summit.
From Ethagala's top you can see the whole town, the lake below and the rocky plains stretching north. Go in the early morning or late afternoon, when the light is soft and the rock surface is cool enough to walk on.
Kurunegala lake, at the foot of the rocks, has a lakeside promenade popular in the evenings. The town has a few simple hotels and is a convenient lunch stop.
- →Ethagala: drive or walk up for the view.
- →The lake: an evening stroll.
- →Lunch: simple rice and curry places in town.
Ridi Vihara and Arankele
Ridi Vihara, the Silver Temple, roughly 30 minutes north-east of town, is said to have been founded in the second century BC on the site of a silver mine. Its cave temple holds a reclining Buddha and a platform decorated with blue and white Dutch tiles showing biblical scenes, an unexpected sight in a Buddhist shrine.
Arankele, further north, is a forest monastery used by meditating monks since ancient times. Stone walkways run under tall trees between ruined meditation halls and a cave. It is very quiet, and visitors should keep it that way: speak softly and stay on the paths.
Both places are best visited in the morning, when it is cooler and quieter.
- →Ridi Vihara: cave shrine and Dutch tiles.
- →Arankele: forest walkways and silence.
- →Dress: shoulders and knees covered.
The old capitals
After Polonnaruwa fell in the thirteenth century, Sri Lanka's kings moved through a series of capitals in this region. Dambadeniya, roughly 30 to 40 minutes south-west of Kurunegala, has a rock with temple remains and a small museum area. Yapahuwa followed, then Kurunegala itself.
Panduwasnuwara, near Wariyapola, is older, linked to the twelfth-century king Parakramabahu I before he took the throne. The foundations of a palace, moats and monasteries spread over a wide area.
Yapahuwa is the highlight: a rock fortress with an ornate stone staircase guarded by carved lions, where the Tooth Relic was kept in the thirteenth century. It is roughly an hour north of Kurunegala, near Maho.
- →Yapahuwa: the lion staircase.
- →Panduwasnuwara: palace foundations.
- →Dambadeniya: rock and temple.
Planning a stop or a night
A stop at Ethagala and Ridi Vihara adds roughly two hours to the Colombo to Sigiriya drive. Adding Yapahuwa makes a full day. Travellers who want to see Panduwasnuwara and Arankele too should spend a night in or near Kurunegala.
The area is hot and dry, especially from roughly March to September. Rain falls mainly from roughly October to December. Carry water and plan sites for the morning and late afternoon.
Lankan Stays & Trails can build these stops into the airport to Cultural Triangle drive, so the journey itself becomes part of the trip.
- →Short stop: Ethagala, roughly an hour.
- →Half day: Ethagala and Ridi Vihara.
- →Full day: add Yapahuwa or Arankele.
Further afield from Kurunegala
Padeniya Raja Maha Viharaya, roughly 40 minutes north on the road to Anuradhapura, is a fine example of a Kandyan-period temple, with carved wooden pillars and a quiet courtyard. It is often visited on the way to Yapahuwa.
To the west, the road towards Puttalam and Chilaw passes coconut country and small rock temples, and leads eventually to Kalpitiya and the coast. To the east, Dambulla and Sigiriya are roughly two hours away, which makes Kurunegala an easy place to start or end a Cultural Triangle loop.
- →Padeniya: carved wooden pillars.
- →Kalpitiya: roughly two to three hours west.
- →Dambulla: roughly two hours north-east.
Frequently asked questions
Is Kurunegala worth visiting?
Kurunegala is worth a stop for its rock views, temples and nearby old capitals, especially if you are driving between Colombo and the Cultural Triangle. It is not a major destination, but sites like Yapahuwa, Ridi Vihara and Arankele are rewarding and rarely crowded.
How far is Kurunegala from Sigiriya?
Kurunegala is roughly two hours from Sigiriya by road, via Dambulla. From Colombo, it is roughly two to three hours, depending on traffic and route. It sits roughly halfway, which makes it a natural place to break the journey.
What is Ridi Vihara famous for?
Ridi Vihara, the Silver Temple, is famous for its cave shrine with a reclining Buddha and a platform decorated with Dutch tiles, and for the legend that silver was mined there to fund Anuradhapura's Ruwanwelisaya stupa. It is roughly 30 minutes from Kurunegala.
Can I climb Ethagala in Kurunegala?
You can reach the top of Ethagala, Kurunegala's Elephant Rock, by road almost to the summit, with a short walk to the white Buddha. Some visitors walk up older paths. The view over the town and lake is best early or late in the day.
What is Arankele?
Arankele is an ancient forest monastery north of Kurunegala, with stone walkways, meditation platforms, ruined buildings and a cave under tall trees. Monks still meditate nearby, so visitors should be quiet and respectful. It is one of the most peaceful historic sites in Sri Lanka.
How far is Yapahuwa from Kurunegala?
Yapahuwa is roughly an hour north of Kurunegala by road, near Maho. It fits well on the drive between Kurunegala and Anuradhapura, or as a detour on the way to Sigiriya. Allow roughly one and a half to two hours at the site.
Where should I stay near Kurunegala?
Kurunegala has a handful of simple to mid-range hotels in town and near the lake. For more comfort, many travellers stay in Sigiriya or Dambulla and visit Kurunegala's sites on the way, or choose a countryside guesthouse among the rocks and paddy fields outside town.