The best places to visit in Sri Lanka when it rains

Sri Lanka has two main monsoons. The south-west monsoon, roughly May to September, brings rain to the west and south coasts, the western hills and the wet zone. The north-east monsoon, roughly November to February, brings rain to the north and east. October and November, the inter-monsoon period, bring afternoon storms almost everywhere.

This means that when one coast is wet, the other is often dry. Moving to the right side of the island is the most effective response to a rainy forecast, especially for beach time.

Even in the wet season, rain usually comes in heavy bursts, often in the afternoon, with sunny mornings. Planning outdoor sights early and covered ones later works on most days.

During the south-west monsoon, the Cultural Triangle, Trincomalee, Pasikudah, Arugam Bay and the north are usually drier and sunnier. A summer trip can be built almost entirely on that side of the island, with the hills visited between showers.

During the north-east monsoon, the south and west coasts, from Negombo to Tangalle, are usually at their best, and the hill country's western slopes are clearer. Yala and Udawalawe in the south-east are also generally good from roughly February.

Lankan Stays & Trails watches the forecast during a trip and will swap the order of stops to keep travellers in the drier region, which is often the easiest fix of all.

Dambulla's Royal Cave Temple, under a great overhang, is unaffected by rain once you have climbed up. The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic in Kandy is largely covered, and its evening puja is as atmospheric on a wet night as a dry one. The Ceylon Tea Museum and working tea factories in the hills are ideal rainy-afternoon stops.

In Colombo, the National Museum, Gangaramaya temple and Number 11, Geoffrey Bawa's house, are all good in rain. In Galle, the maritime museum, the fort's cafes, galleries and boutiques fill a wet afternoon well.

Cooking classes, spa treatments and Ayurveda sessions are also good choices, and many hotels offer them at short notice.

Some places are at their most beautiful in light rain. Sinharaja and Kanneliya rainforests come alive with frogs, streams and mist, though leeches increase. Tea country under drifting cloud, seen from a train window or a bungalow veranda, has a moody beauty of its own.

Waterfalls are fullest during and after rain, and viewpoints for St Clair's, Devon and Ravana falls are easy to reach from the road. Just do not swim in falls or rivers after rain, when water rises suddenly.

Peradeniya's gardens are lovely after a shower, with the paths steaming and the bamboo groves dripping.

Heavy rain makes some activities unsafe or unpleasant. Avoid swimming in rough seas with red flags, swimming at waterfalls or in rivers, and climbing exposed rocks such as Pidurangala or Ella Rock, which become slippery. Sigiriya may close its upper sections in storms.

Safaris usually run in light rain, and animals are often active afterwards, but heavy downpours can make tracks impassable. Whale-watching boats do not sail in rough seas. Hill roads can see landslides in prolonged rain, so drivers may change routes.

Keep plans flexible and listen to local advice.

A light rain jacket or umbrella, quick-drying clothes, sandals and leech socks for forests cover most needs. A dry bag for phones and cameras is useful on boat trips and train rides.

Rain in Sri Lanka is warm except in the high hills, so heavy waterproofs are rarely needed below Nuwara Eliya. In the hills, bring a warm layer as well.