The best places to visit on Sri Lanka's west coast

Sri Lanka's west coast is a chain of towns, river mouths and lagoons rather than one long resort. North of Colombo, Negombo and the Muthurajawela marshes; in the middle, the capital; to the south, Mount Lavinia, Kalutara, Beruwala, Bentota and, on the edge of the south coast, Ambalangoda.

The coast railway and the Southern Expressway run parallel to the sea, so it is easy to stop in several places in one day. The beaches are covered in our west coast beaches guide; this guide focuses on what to see beyond the sand.

Negombo's lagoon is lined with outrigger canoes and fishing boats. Early in the morning, the fish market is busy and the beach next to it is covered with fish drying in the sun. A boat ride along the Hamilton canal, built by the Dutch and extended by the British, gives a slow view of village life.

Negombo's many churches, including St Mary's with its painted ceiling, reflect the Catholic heritage of its fishing communities. The town makes an ideal first or last night, being so close to the airport.

Muthurajawela, a wetland between Negombo and Colombo, offers boat trips through mangroves with kingfishers, herons and monitor lizards.

Colombo's seafront, Galle Face Green, is the city's living room, especially at sunset when families fly kites and buy street food. The Old Parliament, the Dutch Hospital and the Fort area are close by. A little south, Mount Lavinia's old colonial hotel looks over a long beach.

Inland, Gangaramaya temple and Beira Lake make a pleasant afternoon, and the National Museum is the best introduction to the island's history. Avoid the rush hours if driving through the city.

Colombo also has two easy green escapes. Viharamahadevi Park, beside the Town Hall, is shaded and full of families in the late afternoon. The Beddagana wetland park in Kotte has boardwalks through marsh where kingfishers, monitor lizards and even fishing cats live within sight of the city's towers.

Kalutara's white stupa beside the river bridge is unusual: visitors can walk inside its hollow dome. Beruwala, believed to be where Arab traders first settled, has the Kechimalai mosque on a headland, one of the oldest in Sri Lanka.

Bentota is the west coast's most beautiful stretch. Boat trips on the Bentota river and the Madu Ganga lagoon pass mangroves, cinnamon islands and small temples. Lunuganga, Geoffrey Bawa's country estate, and Brief Garden, created by his brother Bevis, are among the island's finest gardens.

Ambalangoda, just south, is known for its carved wooden masks used in traditional dance. Small museums and workshops show how they are made. Turtle hatcheries along this coast, such as at Kosgoda, vary in their methods, so choose ones that release hatchlings promptly and do not encourage handling.

The west coast is best roughly December to April, when the sea is calm and the sky clear. From roughly May to September, the south-west monsoon brings rough seas and heavy showers, though river trips and gardens remain enjoyable.

A good way to see the coast is to stay in Negombo at the start of a trip and in Bentota at the end, with stops in between on the drive south. The coastal railway also links Colombo, Kalutara, Bentota and Ambalangoda.

Lankan Stays & Trails can turn the west coast into a two-day journey instead of a two-hour transfer, with a Muthurajawela boat ride, lunch in Colombo and an afternoon on the Madu Ganga.