Quick answer
The most common mistakes when visiting Kandy are visiting the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic outside puja times, when the shrine is closed; arriving in shorts or sleeveless tops; underestimating traffic, which can turn six kilometres into 45 minutes; attempting long day trips to Sigiriya or Nuwara Eliya; staying far from the centre on a one-night visit; and accepting tuk-tuk tours that end in gem shops. Plan around the 6.30 evening or 5.30 dawn puja, do outdoor sights before 11 and keep day trips under an hour each way.
Key takeaways
- The inner shrine of the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic opens only during the three daily pujas, at roughly 5.30, 9.30 and 6.30.
- Traffic in Kandy is heaviest from 7 to 9 in the morning and 4 to 7 in the evening.
- Sigiriya and Nuwara Eliya are each two and a half to three hours from Kandy, too far for a comfortable day trip.
- Reserved seats on the Kandy to Ella train are released about 30 days ahead and often sell out within days.
- Hotel prices in Kandy can double during the Esala Perahera in July or August.
Mistake one: expecting a quiet hill town
The first mistake in Kandy is one of expectation. Guidebook photographs show a misty lake and green hills, and visitors arrive anticipating a small, tranquil town. Kandy is the second city of Sri Lanka, with buses, crowds and noise to match.
Adjusting expectations of Kandy changes the experience. Come for the temple, the history and the living culture, not for peace. Find the peace at the edges: the lake at dawn, the botanic gardens, Udawattakele and a hotel terrace in the hills.
Mistakes at the temple
The commonest mistake at the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic is arriving at the wrong time. Outside the three pujas, the doors of the upper shrine are shut and the drummers are absent. A midday visit shows an impressive building and none of the ceremony.
Dress and timing errors at the temple come second. Visitors in shorts or vests must buy a sarong at the gate. Those who arrive at 6.30 sharp for the evening puja find the queue already long. Come 30 to 45 minutes early, properly dressed, with socks.
- →Go at puja time: roughly 5.30, 9.30 or 6.30.
- →Arrive 30 to 45 minutes before.
- →Cover shoulders and knees.
- →Never pose with your back to a Buddha image.
Mistakes of timing and traffic
Underestimating traffic is the mistake that costs most time in Kandy. A plan that crosses the city three times in a day will spend two hours in a vehicle. Group sights by area and move between areas outside the rush hours.
Doing things in the wrong order is the related error. The botanic gardens at 1 in the afternoon are hot and glaring, and the viewpoints at midday are hazy. Outdoor sights belong before 11 and after 4. Museums, lunch and rest belong in between.
- →Gardens and forest: morning.
- →Museums, market and rest: midday.
- →Viewpoint, dance show and puja: from 4.
Mistakes with day trips
Overreaching on day trips is a frequent mistake in Kandy. Sigiriya, Nuwara Eliya and the safari parks are each two and a half to three hours away. Done as returns, they consume a day and leave little time at the destination.
The better day trips from Kandy are close. The three temples loop, Ambuluwawa, the Hantana ridge and the tea factories near Pilimathalawa are all within an hour. Lankan Stays & Trails arranges the distant places as overnight stops on the route, not as excursions from Kandy.
- →Avoid as day trips: Sigiriya, Nuwara Eliya, Udawalawe, Adam's Peak.
- →Choose instead: three temples, Ambuluwawa, Hantana, Matale.
- →Think twice about: Pinnawala, on welfare grounds.
Mistakes with hotels, trains and dates
Choosing the wrong hotel location is an easy mistake in Kandy. A beautiful property 40 minutes out is a poor choice for a single night, when you want the evening puja and an early train. For one night, stay near the lake. For two or more, the hills are worth it.
Late booking causes the other planning failures. Reserved seats on the train to Ella are released about 30 days ahead and go quickly. Rooms during the Esala Perahera and over Christmas and New Year sell out months in advance. Check for poya days too, when alcohol is not sold and the temple is packed.
Mistakes with money and touts
Mistakes with money in Kandy mostly involve commission. Tuk-tuk tours at bargain prices lead to gem showrooms, spice gardens and batik factories. A stranger who says the temple is closed is steering you to a shop. Agree fares first and decline detours.
Small oversights also add up in Kandy. Carry small notes for temple fees, shoe-keepers and tuk-tuks. Buy dance tickets at the door, not in the street. And do not skip the temple to save the entrance fee, since it is the reason the city exists.
- →Agree tuk-tuk fares and stops before setting off.
- →Ignore anyone who says the temple is closed.
- →Buy spices at the market, not a spice garden.
- →Never buy gems as an investment.
Frequently asked questions
What should I know before visiting Kandy?
Before visiting Kandy, know that it is a busy city, that the temple is best seen at a puja, that modest dress is required, and that traffic is slow in the morning and evening. One or two nights are enough for most first-time visitors.
What should I not do in Kandy?
In Kandy, do not enter temples in shorts or sleeveless tops, pose with your back to a Buddha image, ride elephants, follow strangers to gem shops or drink alcohol in public near the temple. Avoid crossing the city by road during rush hours.
Why do some people not like Kandy?
Some visitors dislike Kandy because they expect a quiet hill town and find a congested city. Others see the temple outside puja times and feel underwhelmed. With realistic expectations, good timing and a hotel away from the traffic, most people enjoy it.
Is one night in Kandy enough?
One night in Kandy is enough for the evening puja, the lake and, the next morning, the botanic gardens. It is the minimum that makes sense. Two nights are more relaxed and allow a half-day trip into the surrounding countryside.
When should I book the train from Kandy to Ella?
Book the train from Kandy to Ella as soon as reserved seats are released, about 30 days before travel. Observation and reserved second-class seats sell out fast in high season. If they are gone, unreserved carriages or boarding at Peradeniya remain options.
Should I skip Kandy?
Skipping Kandy is reasonable on trips of a week or less, or if cities and temples do not interest you. You would miss the country's most important Buddhist shrine and the start of the hill railway. Most first-time itineraries are better with one night there.