The culture, wildlife and beach route in November and December

November is a month of transition. The south-west monsoon has passed, and the south coast improves through the month, though showers remain common, especially early on. The north-east monsoon begins in the north and east, so the Cultural Triangle and the east coast become wetter.

The standard route works in November, but with more rain than later months. Mornings are often clear, so keep sightseeing early. Prices are lower than in December, and sites are quieter.

Travellers with flexible dates often find late November a good compromise between weather and value.

Hotels on the south coast often reopen or refresh their rooms in November after the quieter months, and some beach restaurants only start serving in earnest later in the month. Early November can therefore feel slightly sleepy on the coast, which some travellers enjoy.

By December the south coast is usually dry and calm, ideal for the beach days. Whale watching off Mirissa usually begins around December, though the very start of the season can be less reliable. Yala is open and good, and Udawalawe is reliable for elephants.

The Cultural Triangle remains showery, especially in early December, with the north-east monsoon still active. Rain usually falls in the afternoon or evening, and the landscape is lush and green. The ruins can be slippery after rain, so wear shoes with good grip.

The day 7 drive south through Ratnapura can be wet in December, so allow a little extra time. Kandy is cooler and often misty in the mornings, which makes the walk around the lake especially atmospheric.

From about 20 December to early January, the south coast is at its busiest and most expensive. Hotels in Galle, Mirissa and Tangalle fill early, often with minimum-stay requirements, and prices can rise sharply. Christmas and New Year's Eve dinners are often compulsory supplements at larger hotels.

Book three to six months ahead, or longer for popular hotels. Lankan Stays & Trails can arrange the route so that the busiest beach nights are booked first, and plan the culture week for the days around Christmas, when the ruins are quieter.

Christmas is widely celebrated, especially in Colombo and along the west coast, and hotels decorate and host events.

The standard order, with culture first and beach last, suits these months well, because the Cultural Triangle dries a little through December and the south coast improves. Plan ruins and climbs for the morning and keep afternoons flexible for showers.

If heavy rain persists in the Cultural Triangle, swap days to give Sigiriya the clearest morning, and visit Dambulla's caves or Kandy's temple on wetter days.

Travellers arriving in early December can also swap the order of the first two stops, starting at Sigiriya and seeing Anuradhapura on the way north to the coast later in the trip. In practice, though, the standard order usually works, because the showers rarely last all day.

Migrant birds arrive from about November, filling Bundala, the tanks and the coast. Yala is good, with green landscapes and animals spread out. In the Cultural Triangle, elephants are more often at Kaudulla or Hurulu than Minneriya.

Turtles nest at Rekawa throughout the year. Whale watching off Mirissa starts around December; book it for later in your coastal stay if your trip is early in the month.