Quick answer
Kandy on a honeymoon needs one night, or two if you arrive late or want a slower pace. Attend the evening puja at the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic at roughly half past six, when drummers play and the shrine room opens, then spend the next morning at the Royal Botanic Gardens in Peradeniya, about six kilometres away. Stay in a small hotel in the hills outside the centre, where the traffic fades and pools overlook the Knuckles Range.
Key takeaways
- Kandy was the last royal capital of Sri Lanka, falling to the British in 1815, and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988.
- The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic holds pujas at dawn, mid-morning and at roughly half past six in the evening.
- The Royal Botanic Gardens at Peradeniya cover roughly 60 hectares and lie about six kilometres from the city.
- Hill hotels 20 to 40 minutes outside Kandy are quieter and more romantic than those in the centre.
- Kandy is the usual starting point for the scenic train to Nanu Oya and Ella.
Kandy's role in a honeymoon route
Kandy's role in a honeymoon route is partly practical. The city lies two and a half to three hours from Sigiriya and is where the hill-country railway begins, so nearly every itinerary passes through. One night breaks the journey at a natural point.
The cultural reason is the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, the Sri Dalada Maligawa. It houses a tooth of the Buddha, brought to the island in the fourth century, and is a living place of worship. Watching families bring lotus flowers at dusk is moving whatever your beliefs.
- →A natural break between Sigiriya and the tea country.
- →The island's most important Buddhist shrine.
- →The departure point for the hill train.
The temple in the evening
The temple in the evening is the experience to plan around. Arrive by six, leave your shoes at the counter and walk through the moat gate as the drums begin. During the puja, the doors of the upper shrine open and devotees file past the gold casket that contains the relic.
Dress matters. Shoulders and knees must be covered for both of you, and white or pale clothing is appreciated. The halls are crowded and warm. Afterwards, a walk along the lake, which the last king created in 1807, is a calm way to end the day.
- →Arrive by six for the half past six puja.
- →Cover shoulders and knees; carry socks if stone floors bother you.
- →Buy flowers at the gate to offer, as local visitors do.
Gardens, lake and gentle hours
The Royal Botanic Gardens at Peradeniya are the best morning in Kandy for a couple. An avenue of royal palms, a giant Javan fig spreading across a lawn, an orchid house and a suspension bridge over the Mahaweli River fill two unhurried hours. It is a favourite of local newlyweds for photographs.
Other gentle options include a Kandyan dance performance at about five in the afternoon, the forest paths of Udawattakele behind the temple and a loop of three medieval temples in the countryside: Embekke, Lankatilaka and Gadaladeniya.
Where to stay for romance
Places to stay in Kandy divide between town and hills. The centre has traffic, horns and steep streets, and its heritage hotels trade on location. For a honeymoon, the hills are better. Small properties on the slopes of Hantana, above the Mahaweli or out towards the Victoria reservoir have terraces, infinity pools and silence.
The compromise is distance. A hill hotel may be 20 to 40 minutes from the temple, on narrow roads. With a driver that hardly matters, and returning to a quiet terrace after the bustle of the puja is a pleasure in itself.
- →Town centre: a walk to the temple, and more noise.
- →Hantana and the near hills: about 20 minutes out, with wide views.
- →Victoria reservoir side: 30 to 40 minutes out and the most secluded.
One night or two
One night in Kandy is enough for most honeymoons: arrive after lunch, rest, attend the puja and leave by train the next morning. Two nights make sense if your hill hotel is somewhere you want to linger, or during the Esala Perahera in July or August, when the city is transformed.
Lankan Stays & Trails usually pairs a single Kandy night with a later train, so that the morning is free for the gardens. Couples on a slow route can visit Kandy for a few hours on the way from Sigiriya to the tea country and not stay at all.
Frequently asked questions
Is Kandy romantic for a honeymoon?
Kandy is atmospheric more than conventionally romantic. The evening ceremony at the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, the lake at dusk and the botanic gardens are memorable. Romance comes mostly from where you stay, and the hill hotels outside the centre are excellent for couples.
How many nights do we need in Kandy on honeymoon?
One night is enough for the temple, the lake and the gardens. Stay two if you arrive late in the day, want a rest day at a hill hotel or are visiting during the Kandy Esala Perahera. More than two is rarely needed on a honeymoon.
Can we skip Kandy on a honeymoon?
You can. On routes of under ten days, many couples pass through Kandy for a few hours or leave it out. The main loss is the temple's evening puja. If you want the hill train, you can also board at Peradeniya or further up the line.
What should we wear to the Temple of the Tooth?
Both of you should cover shoulders and knees, so long trousers or a long skirt and a top with sleeves. Shoes and hats are removed before entering. Light-coloured clothing is traditional. A sarong can be bought nearby if you arrive unprepared.
Is Kandy or Nuwara Eliya better for a honeymoon stay?
Nuwara Eliya and the surrounding tea country are better for a longer honeymoon stay, with cooler air, estate bungalows and scenery. Kandy is better for one cultural evening. Most routes include both, with one night in Kandy and two in the tea hills.
When is the Kandy Esala Perahera?
The Kandy Esala Perahera takes place over about ten nights in July or August, ending on the Esala full moon. Dates change each year. During the festival, hotels are expensive and seats on the procession route should be reserved well in advance.