Quick answer
A luxury 7-day Sri Lanka itinerary during the Kandy Esala Perahera should run Sigiriya for two nights, the east coast for two and Kandy for the final two, with a reserved seat for one of the last five nights, known as the Randoli Perahera. The festival is usually held in July or August, and dates shift each year with the lunar calendar. Good seats cost roughly US$50 to US$150 a person, and hotel rates in Kandy double or more.
Key takeaways
- The Kandy Esala Perahera runs for ten nights, usually in July or August, ending on the Esala full moon.
- The final five nights, the Randoli Perahera, are the largest and most elaborate.
- Reserved seats on the procession route cost roughly US$50 to US$150 a person, more on the last nights.
- Kandy's streets close to traffic from mid-afternoon, and spectators are seated two to three hours before the start.
- Hotel rates in Kandy during the Perahera are commonly double the usual level or higher.
What the Esala Perahera is
A luxury 7-day Sri Lanka itinerary during the Kandy Esala Perahera is planned around a procession held in honour of the Sacred Tooth Relic. A replica of the relic casket is carried through the streets on the back of a great tusker, accompanied by whip crackers, torch bearers, drummers, Kandyan dancers and dozens of caparisoned elephants.
The festival lasts ten nights. The first five, the Kumbal Perahera, are smaller. The last five, the Randoli Perahera, grow each night to a final procession on the full moon. Each procession takes three to four hours to pass a given point.
Dates and which night to choose
Dates for the Esala Perahera are set by the lunar calendar and announced by the temple some months ahead. The festival usually falls in July or August. Do not book flights on the strength of last year's dates.
The final night is the most spectacular and the most crowded. The second or third night of the Randoli is a better choice for most visitors, with nearly the full procession, slightly lower prices and easier movement. The first five nights suit those who dislike crowds.
- →Nights 1 to 5: Kumbal Perahera, smaller, calmer.
- →Nights 6 to 9: Randoli Perahera, grand, busy.
- →Night 10: the largest, on the full moon.
Seats and viewing
Seats are the essential booking. Along the route, shopfronts, hotel terraces and temporary stands sell numbered chairs. Prices run from roughly US$50 to US$150 a person depending on the night and position, with front rows near the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic the most sought after.
A first-floor balcony gives a clear view above the heads of the crowd and a place to stand and stretch. You must be seated by about 5pm for a procession that begins after dusk and passes until 11pm or later. Bring water, a cushion and patience.
- →Choose a balcony or front row over a rear stand.
- →Be seated by 5pm, with streets closed from mid-afternoon.
- →Expect the procession to end near midnight.
The route for a Perahera week
The Perahera falls in the south-west monsoon, when the south coast is wet and rough. The better route for the week is the mid-year one: Sigiriya for two nights, Trincomalee or Pasikudah for two, and Kandy for two at the end.
Two nights in Kandy are necessary. You cannot arrive on the afternoon of the procession, since roads into the centre close, and you will not want to leave at dawn after a midnight finish. The airport is roughly three to three and a half hours from Kandy on the last day.
- →Days 1 and 2: Sigiriya, with the elephant gathering at Minneriya.
- →Days 3 and 4: the east coast.
- →Days 5 and 6: Kandy, with the Perahera on one evening.
Hotels during the festival
Kandy has too few rooms for the Perahera. The better hotels are booked up to a year ahead for the Randoli nights, with rates at double the normal level or more and minimum stays of two or three nights.
Hotels in the hills above the city are quieter, and need a plan for getting to the seats. Vehicles cannot enter the centre once roads close, so your chauffeur-guide drops you as near as possible and you walk the rest. A hotel by the lake removes that problem at the price of noise.
The elephants
Elephants are central to the Perahera and are the subject of real concern. The animals are privately owned or belong to temples, are kept in chains and walk for hours among noise, fire and crowds. Welfare groups have criticised their treatment, and incidents have occurred.
Travellers should know this before they go. Many Sri Lankans regard the elephants' role as sacred and inseparable from the festival. Lankan Stays & Trails tells guests what they will see, and respects the choice of those who would prefer to visit Kandy at another time.
Booking a Perahera week
Start a year ahead if you can. Confirm the dates when the temple announces them, then book Kandy first, seats second and the rest of the route around them. The east coast in July and August is also in its busiest season.
On the day, eat a late lunch, use the hotel bathroom before you leave and carry little. Poya rules apply on the final night, with no alcohol sold. The morning after, a quiet visit to the Royal Botanic Gardens at Peradeniya suits tired heads.
Frequently asked questions
When is the Kandy Esala Perahera?
Usually in July or August, over ten nights ending on the Esala full moon. Exact dates shift each year with the lunar calendar and are announced by the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic some months in advance. Confirm before booking flights.
Which night of the Kandy Perahera is best?
The last five nights, the Randoli Perahera, are the grandest. The final night is the largest and most crowded. Many visitors prefer the second or third Randoli night, which has almost the full procession with slightly smaller crowds and lower seat prices.
How much are seats for the Kandy Perahera?
Roughly US$50 to US$150 a person for a reserved seat, depending on the night and location. Front rows and balconies near the temple cost most, especially on the final nights. Standing on the pavement is free and requires arriving many hours early.
How many nights do I need in Kandy for the Perahera?
Two. Roads close from mid-afternoon on procession days, and the event ends near midnight, so arriving and leaving on the same day is impractical. Two nights give one evening at the Perahera and a morning to recover.
Is the Kandy Perahera worth it?
For most visitors with an interest in culture, yes. It is a remarkable spectacle of drumming, dance and devotion. It also means crowds, long waits, high prices and the sight of chained elephants, which some travellers find distressing.
How far ahead should I book for the Esala Perahera?
Nine to twelve months for luxury hotels in Kandy on the Randoli nights. Seats can be booked later, though the best positions go early. Because dates are confirmed only months ahead, book refundable rooms across the likely period first.