Quick answer
Udawattakele Forest Sanctuary is a protected forest of roughly 100 hectares on the ridge directly behind the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic in Kandy. The entrance is about one kilometre from the temple, on the road past the municipal offices. Wide paths such as Lady Horton's Drive make loops of one to three hours past a royal pond, a giant liana and several forest hermitages. Go between 7 and 10 in the morning for birds, wear closed shoes, and expect leeches after rain.
Key takeaways
- Udawattakele covers roughly 104 hectares and has been a sanctuary since 1938, after being declared a forest reserve in 1856.
- The entrance to Udawattakele is about one kilometre, or 15 minutes on foot, from the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic.
- Lady Horton's Drive, the main track in Udawattakele, was laid out in the 1830s and named after the wife of a British governor.
- Around 80 bird species have been recorded in Udawattakele, including the endemic yellow-fronted barbet and Layard's parakeet.
- Leeches are common in Udawattakele in wet weather, particularly from October to December.
What Udawattakele is
Udawattakele is a block of semi-evergreen forest on the hill above the old royal palace of Kandy. Under the kings it was a forbidden reserve, known as Uda Wasala Watta, where only the royal household could go. The pond inside the forest was used for bathing by the court.
The Udawattakele forest was thinned under early British rule for firewood and building, then protected from 1856 as the city's water catchment. Much of what stands today is regrowth more than a century old, mixed with planted mahogany and other exotic trees. The canopy is tall and dense enough that the city below is almost inaudible.
The trails and how long they take
The trails of Udawattakele are broad, mostly unpaved carriage tracks built for colonial officials and their families. Lady Horton's Drive climbs gently from the gate and loops around the ridge. Smaller footpaths, including one called Lovers' Walk, cut between the main tracks.
A visit to Udawattakele can be as short or as long as you like. Signposting is patchy, although the tracks are obvious and a simple map is displayed at the ticket office. Photograph it before you set off.
- →Pond loop: about 45 minutes, nearly flat, the best for families.
- →Lady Horton's Drive circuit: one and a half to two hours.
- →Full outer circuit with side paths: up to three hours and about five kilometres.
- →Kodimale viewpoint: a short, steeper spur to the highest point of the ridge.
What you will see
Udawattakele's most photographed feature is a giant liana, known locally as pus wela, whose woody stems loop across the path like cables for many metres. Near it stand tall trees with buttressed roots. The royal pond lies a few minutes from the gate, dark and still under bamboo.
Wildlife in Udawattakele is easier to hear than to see. Toque macaques are everywhere and bold around food. Barking deer, wild boar and porcupines live in the forest and are occasionally met at dawn. Birdwatchers look for the yellow-fronted barbet, Layard's parakeet, the brown-capped babbler and, with luck, the Sri Lanka hanging parrot.
- →The giant liana on the lower drive.
- →The royal pond near the entrance.
- →Three Buddhist forest hermitages and several meditation caves.
- →Garrison-era remains, including an old ice store.
Tickets, hours and what to bring
Udawattakele is managed by the Forest Department, and foreign visitors buy a ticket at the gate. The fee has usually been the equivalent of a few US dollars. The sanctuary generally opens around 6 or 7 in the morning and closes in the late afternoon, with last entry earlier than closing.
Preparation for Udawattakele is mostly about leeches and monkeys. Closed shoes with long socks, or proper leech socks, are worthwhile from October to January and after any heavy rain. Keep food inside a zipped bag. There are no shops or drinking water inside the forest.
- →Bring: water, insect repellent, closed shoes and small notes for the ticket.
- →Avoid: sandals in wet weather, and plastic bags that monkeys associate with food.
- →Solo walkers: keep to the main drives, and go in the morning when others are about.
Is Udawattakele safe
Udawattakele is safe for most visitors in daylight on the main tracks. The forest has had occasional reports of bag snatching and harassment on its remoter paths over the years, which is why local advice is not to walk the far side alone late in the day.
The practical risks in Udawattakele are smaller ones: slippery clay after rain, falling branches in high wind, and macaques that grab at bags. Lankan Stays & Trails sends travellers into the forest with a naturalist guide when birds are the purpose, which also solves the question of route-finding.
Fitting the forest into a Kandy visit
Udawattakele fits best into the first hours of a Kandy morning. A walk from 7 to 9, followed by a late breakfast and the museums or the market, uses the cool part of the day well. The forest is a poor choice in the mid-afternoon, when birds are silent and thunderstorms build.
Udawattakele suits travellers who would otherwise find Kandy too urban. It is not a wilderness, and walkers wanting a full day should look to the Hantana ridges or the Knuckles Range instead. As a two-hour change of air between temples, though, nothing in the city compares.
Frequently asked questions
Where is the entrance to Udawattakele?
The entrance to Udawattakele is on the western side of the forest, about one kilometre from the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic. Walk up the road beside the post office and municipal council buildings and follow the signs. A tuk-tuk from the lake takes five minutes.
How long do you need at Udawattakele?
Allow one and a half to two hours for the main circuit of Lady Horton's Drive with stops at the pond and the giant liana. A short visit to the pond alone takes 45 minutes. Keen birdwatchers often spend three hours in the early morning.
Are there leeches in Udawattakele?
Leeches are present in Udawattakele whenever the ground is wet, and are most numerous from October to December. They are harmless but unpleasant. Closed shoes, long socks pulled over trouser legs and a little repellent or salt on the ankles keep most of them off.
Is Udawattakele good for birdwatching?
Udawattakele is one of the most convenient birding sites in the hill country, with around 80 species recorded. Endemics such as the yellow-fronted barbet, Layard's parakeet and brown-capped babbler are regular. The first two hours after the gate opens are by far the most productive.
Can children walk in Udawattakele?
Children manage the pond loop and the lower part of Lady Horton's Drive easily, since the tracks are wide and gently graded. Pushchairs cope on the first section in dry weather. Watch small children around the macaques, which can be aggressive if they see snacks.
Do you need a guide for Udawattakele?
A guide is not needed to walk Udawattakele, because the main tracks are clear. A naturalist adds a great deal if you want to identify birds, trees and butterflies. Unofficial guides sometimes offer their services at the gate; agree a price first or decline.