10-day Sri Lanka family holiday in July and August

A 10-day Sri Lanka family holiday in July and August relies on the island's two-monsoon pattern. The south-west monsoon, from roughly May to September, brings wind and rough seas to the south and west coasts. The east coast lies in the rain shadow of the central hills and stays dry.

The Cultural Triangle is also dry at this time, hot and breezy, and Kandy is pleasant with occasional showers. The hill country around Ella is windy with some mist. There is always a good coast in Sri Lanka; in the summer holidays it faces east.

The summer route begins as usual with four to five hours from the airport to Sigiriya for three nights. From there the family drives east: about two to two and a half hours beyond Polonnaruwa to Pasikudah, or two and a half to three hours from Sigiriya to Trincomalee and Nilaveli.

After three beach nights the route turns inland to Kandy, roughly four to five hours from either beach, for two nights. A final night can be spent in Kandy, at a tea estate or near the airport, three to three and a half hours away, depending on the flight.

Pasikudah is the east coast beach for small children. Its horseshoe bay is so shallow that an adult can walk out 100 metres and still be waist deep, and there are almost no waves. Resorts with large pools line the sand. There is little else to do, which is the appeal.

Nilaveli and Uppuveli, north of Trincomalee, suit older children. The beaches are long and the sea is deeper, with boat trips to Pigeon Island National Park for snorkelling over coral with reef sharks and turtles. Whale and dolphin trips run from Trincomalee in these months.

The Gathering is the summer's great wildlife event. As the dry season shrinks Minneriya's reservoir, fresh grass grows on the exposed bed and elephants arrive from the surrounding forest. From July to September, afternoon safaris regularly find 150 to 300 animals in one view.

For families this is the easiest safari in Sri Lanka: a 30-minute drive from Sigiriya, three hours in an open jeep and elephants guaranteed in all but name. It is also busy. Ask the driver to keep back from the herd and let the animals come to you.

Kandy in July or August may coincide with the Esala Perahera, ten nights of torch-lit processions with drummers, dancers and caparisoned elephants. For children of about seven and over it can be unforgettable. Seats must be booked ahead, and the procession ends late.

The festival has costs. Hotel prices in Kandy double or more, roads close from mid-afternoon, and the use of chained elephants raises welfare questions that parents may want to discuss. Families with small children often choose dates on either side of it.

The trade-offs of the summer route are the loss of Ella and Udawalawe from the standard plan and longer drives to and from the east coast. Ella can be kept by giving up a beach night, with a long final drive of five and a half to six and a half hours to the airport.

East coast hotels are fewer than those in the south and fill early for August. Book four to five months ahead. Lankan Stays & Trails plans summer routes around the youngest child's swimming ability and the Perahera dates.