Quick answer
The best colonial heritage on Sri Lanka's south coast beyond Galle Fort is in Matara, with its Dutch fort walls, the star-shaped Star Fort of the 1760s and an old Dutch church, along with Tangalle's former Dutch fort, Hambantota's British Martello tower and colonial-era rest houses along the coast. The ruins of the great temple at Dondra Head recall the Portuguese raid of the late sixteenth century. Most sites take 20 minutes to an hour, and combine well with temples and beaches.
Key takeaways
- The Portuguese arrived on Sri Lanka's coast in the early sixteenth century, followed by the Dutch in the mid-seventeenth and the British from 1796.
- Matara's Star Fort, built by the Dutch in the 1760s, has a six-pointed star plan and a moat.
- Matara's main fort walls enclose an old quarter with a Dutch-era church and colonial buildings.
- Hambantota's Martello tower is a British coastal fortification from the early nineteenth century.
- The Portuguese destroyed the great temple at Dondra Head in the late sixteenth century, and fragments survive.
Colonial history on the south coast
Sri Lanka's south coast was ruled in turn by the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British. The Portuguese arrived in the early sixteenth century and fought for control of the coast. The Dutch East India Company took over in the mid-seventeenth century, building forts and churches, and the British replaced them from 1796.
Galle Fort is the finest surviving colonial town, but the colonial era left traces all along the coast. Seeking them out adds a layer of history to a trip between the beaches.
Matara: two forts and a church
Matara, about 45 kilometres east of Galle, has the coast's second colonial centre. The main fort, on a spit between the Nilwala River and the sea, encloses an old quarter with colonial buildings and a Dutch-era church, with old gravestones and memorials.
Across the river, the Star Fort is a small Dutch fortification of the 1760s with a six-pointed star plan, a moat and a fine gateway. It was built after an uprising showed the main fort's weaknesses, and has at times housed a small museum. The two forts together take about an hour.
- →Main fort: old quarter, ramparts and a Dutch church.
- →Star Fort: a star-shaped Dutch fort of the 1760s.
- →Time: about an hour for both.
Dondra Head and the Portuguese raid
At Dondra Head, just east of Matara, the Devinuwara area was once home to a great temple complex famous across the Indian Ocean. In the late sixteenth century, Portuguese forces raided and destroyed it, a violent episode in the colonial history of the coast.
Fragments of the old temple's stonework survive around the modern shrines, including carved pillars and a small stone shrine. Combined with the lighthouse, built by the British in 1890, Dondra shows several layers of history in a short visit.
- →Ancient temple: famed across the Indian Ocean.
- →Portuguese raid: late sixteenth century.
- →British lighthouse: completed in 1890.
Tangalle and Hambantota
Tangalle had a Dutch fort overlooking the bay, later used for official purposes, including as a prison. The building is not open as a tourist sight, but it can be seen from outside, and Tangalle's old rest house area has colonial-era buildings.
Hambantota has a Martello tower, a round British fortification from the early nineteenth century near the harbour, one of very few in Sri Lanka. The town also has links to Leonard Woolf, who served as a colonial officer here from 1908 to 1911.
- →Tangalle: the former Dutch fort, seen from outside.
- →Hambantota: the British Martello tower.
- →Leonard Woolf: colonial officer in Hambantota, 1908 to 1911.
Rest houses and churches on the coast road
Colonial rest houses, built as lodgings for officials travelling the coast, still stand in several towns, some now restaurants or hotels with sea views. They are a pleasant place for lunch on a coast road day, often in old buildings with verandas.
Small churches from the Dutch and British periods dot the coast, from Galle to Matara and beyond. Many are still in use, with old gravestones and memorials that tell the stories of colonial families, soldiers and traders.
Planning a colonial heritage day
A colonial heritage day beyond Galle works best from Mirissa or Matara. Visit Matara's main fort and Star Fort in the morning, Dondra Head before lunch, and continue east to Tangalle in the afternoon. Hambantota's Martello tower fits a drive towards Yala.
Lankan Stays & Trails combines colonial sites with temples and beaches for travellers interested in history, often with a guide who can explain the layers of Portuguese, Dutch and British rule on the coast.
- →Morning: Matara's forts and church.
- →Midday: Dondra Head.
- →Afternoon: on to Tangalle or Hambantota.
Frequently asked questions
Where can I see colonial heritage on the south coast besides Galle?
Matara has the most, with its main fort, the Star Fort of the 1760s and a Dutch-era church. Tangalle has a former Dutch fort, Hambantota a British Martello tower, and Dondra Head the ruins of a temple destroyed by the Portuguese.
What is the Star Fort in Matara?
The Star Fort is a small Dutch fortification of the 1760s in Matara, with a six-pointed star plan, a moat and a fine gateway. It was built after an uprising showed the weaknesses of the main fort, and takes 20 to 30 minutes to visit.
Is Matara Fort worth visiting?
Yes, for a short visit. Matara's main fort encloses an old quarter with colonial buildings and a Dutch-era church, and the Star Fort across the river is one of the most distinctive colonial buildings on the coast. Allow about an hour for both.
Who built the forts on Sri Lanka's south coast?
The Portuguese built the first forts in the sixteenth century, the Dutch rebuilt and expanded them from the mid-seventeenth century, and the British added later works such as Martello towers after 1796. Galle and Matara show mainly Dutch work.
What happened at Dondra Head in the colonial period?
In the late sixteenth century, Portuguese forces raided Dondra Head and destroyed its great temple complex, famous across the Indian Ocean. Fragments of the old stonework survive near the modern shrines, beside the British lighthouse of 1890.
Can you visit the Martello tower in Hambantota?
The Martello tower, a round British fortification from the early nineteenth century near Hambantota's harbour, can be seen from outside, and access to the interior varies. It makes a short stop on the drive towards Yala.
How long do you need for colonial sites beyond Galle?
A half day covers Matara's two forts, the church and Dondra Head. A full day can add Tangalle and Hambantota on the way east. Most individual sites take 20 minutes to an hour, so they combine well with temples and beaches.