Days 5 and 6: Dambulla and Kandy

Dambulla Cave Temple sits high on a granite outcrop, roughly 30 minutes from Sigiriya. Five caves are filled with Buddha statues, including a large reclining figure, and the ceilings are covered in paintings that have been renewed over many centuries. Going at opening time avoids the heat on the climb and the larger groups that arrive later.

The climb up the rock takes about 15 to 20 minutes on a broad stone path, with monkeys around the steps. Leave shoes at the entrance, cover shoulders and knees, and allow around an hour inside. The golden Buddha at the foot of the hill belongs to a modern museum complex and is not the cave temple itself.

From Dambulla, the road runs south through Naula and Matale to Kandy, roughly two to two and a half hours. It climbs gently into greener, hillier country, but nothing like the winding roads beyond Kandy. Spice gardens near Matale offer short tours of cinnamon, pepper, cardamom and nutmeg, and are a pleasant break, though the shops can be pushy.

The rock temple at Aluvihare, just north of Matale, is where the Buddhist scriptures are said to have first been written down, and makes a quieter, more meaningful stop than most spice gardens. Arrive in Kandy by mid-afternoon to rest before the evening.

The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, beside Kandy Lake, houses a tooth believed to be a relic of the Buddha, and is the most important Buddhist shrine in the country. Several pujas are held each day; the evening one is the most atmospheric, with drummers, lamps and crowds of devotees carrying flowers.

The relic itself is kept in a casket and is not displayed, but the casket chamber is opened during the puja. Expect queues and a slow-moving crowd. Dress modestly in clothing that covers shoulders and knees, leave shoes at the entrance and keep phones on silent.

After the puja, walk along the lake in the cool evening, then have dinner in town or at the hotel.

Day 6 is the only full day without a move in the first week, and it is a gentle one. Start at the Royal Botanic Gardens at Peradeniya, roughly 20 to 30 minutes from the centre, when the air is fresh. The orchid house, the giant Javan fig and the avenues of palms are highlights, and the gardens are a calm contrast to the ruins of the past days.

Return to Kandy for lunch and a slow afternoon: the lake walk, the market, a cooking class or simply the hotel. At dusk, a Kandyan dance performance brings together drummers, dancers in silver costume and a fire-walking finale. It is staged for visitors, but the dance traditions are genuine and the drumming is superb.

Travellers who prefer temples to gardens can visit the three temples of Embekke, Lankatilaka and Gadaladeniya instead, a half-day circuit in the countryside west of Kandy.

Day 7 is the longest drive on the route, roughly five to six hours to Udawalawe, so pack the evening before and plan an early start. Ask the hotel for a packed breakfast if needed.

Lankan Stays & Trails times the departure so that you reach Udawalawe by mid-afternoon, with stops for lunch and a break. Kandy is the last place on the route with a large choice of shops, pharmacies and banks, so stock up on anything you need.