Quick answer
Isurumuniya is a rock temple in southern Anuradhapura, traditionally founded in the 3rd century BC by King Devanampiya Tissa, beside Tissa Wewa. It is known for its carvings: elephants bathing in the rock pool, a man with a horse's head, and in the small museum the famous Isurumuniya Lovers, carved around the 5th or 6th century. Climb the rock for sunset over the tank. Isurumuniya charges a separate small fee from the main sacred city ticket. Allow 45 minutes to an hour.
Key takeaways
- Isurumuniya is traditionally said to have been founded in the 3rd century BC by King Devanampiya Tissa.
- The Isurumuniya Lovers carving, dating to roughly the 5th or 6th century, is one of the most famous pieces of Sri Lankan sculpture.
- Elephants carved in the rock above Isurumuniya's pool appear to bathe in the water below.
- Isurumuniya charges a separate small entrance fee, as a working temple, in addition to the Anuradhapura sacred city ticket.
- The rock at Isurumuniya gives views over Tissa Wewa and is a popular sunset spot.
History
Isurumuniya is traditionally said to have been founded in the 3rd century BC by King Devanampiya Tissa, the king who welcomed Buddhism, for monks ordained from noble families. It sits beside Tissa Wewa, the tank built in the same period, and below a granite outcrop.
The temple remains active, with a modern shrine built against the rock, a reclining Buddha and a small museum of carvings. Nearby lie the Ranmasu Uyana royal pleasure gardens, where a mysterious carved circle known as the Sakwala Chakraya has inspired many theories.
Isurumuniya's setting explains its appeal for monks. The granite boulders provided natural caves and shade, the tank provided water and quiet, and the site lay on the edge of the busy capital. Several drip-ledged caves around the rock were used by monks in the earliest centuries of Buddhism in Sri Lanka.
The carvings
Isurumuniya's carvings are its great attraction. On the rock face above the pool, elephants are carved as if bathing, playful and lifelike. Nearby, a figure of a seated man with a horse's head behind him has been variously identified as a god of rain and fire, or a sage.
In the small museum are the Isurumuniya Lovers, a carved stone panel of a man and woman, thought to date from roughly the 5th or 6th century and showing the influence of the Gupta style of India. Legend links them to Prince Saliya, son of King Dutugemunu, and a low-caste woman he loved, though historians doubt it. Another panel shows a royal family.
Isurumuniya's carvings are best seen in soft light, when shadows bring out the detail. The elephants on the rock face above the pool are easy to miss at midday, when the sun flattens them. In late afternoon, they stand out clearly, and their reflection in the pool adds to the effect.
- →Bathing elephants on the rock face.
- →Man with a horse's head.
- →The Isurumuniya Lovers, in the museum.
- →The royal family panel.
The view from the rock
Climbing the rock at Isurumuniya is one of the pleasures of a visit. Steps lead up the granite to a viewpoint over Tissa Wewa, with stupas rising above the trees in the distance. Shoes come off, and the rock is hot in the afternoon sun, so go late.
Sunset from the rock is popular and beautiful. Combine it with a walk along the Tissa Wewa bund, where fishermen and birds gather in the evening.
- →Climb in the late afternoon.
- →Shoes off on the rock; socks help.
- →Sunset over Tissa Wewa.
Visiting tips
Isurumuniya charges a separate small entrance fee as a working temple, in addition to the main Anuradhapura sacred city ticket. Allow 45 minutes to an hour, including the museum and the rock. Dress modestly and remove shoes and hats.
Isurumuniya works well as the last stop of an Anuradhapura day, after Jetavanaramaya, Ruwanwelisaya and Abhayagiri. Lankan Stays & Trails guides often finish here for sunset, with the Ranmasu Uyana gardens a short walk away.
The museum is small but the lovers carving is worth the visit alone. Photography inside may be restricted, so check signs.
Isurumuniya's shrine room, built against the rock, contains a seated Buddha image and modern paintings. Pilgrims offer flowers and light lamps here throughout the day. The pool below is home to fish and turtles, and visitors sometimes see monitor lizards on the rocks nearby in the warm afternoon.
- →Separate small fee.
- →Allow 45 minutes to an hour.
- →Best as the last stop of the day.
- →Ranmasu Uyana gardens nearby.
Nearby sites
Several sites lie close to Isurumuniya in southern Anuradhapura. Ranmasu Uyana, the royal pleasure gardens, has rock-cut pools and the carved Sakwala Chakraya. Tissa Wewa's bund offers a walk at sunset. The Sri Maha Bodhi and Ruwanwelisaya are a few minutes north by tuk-tuk.
Mirisawetiya stupa, one of the earlier great stupas, lies a short way north-east, near the road to the sacred city.
- →Ranmasu Uyana and the Sakwala Chakraya.
- →Tissa Wewa bund.
- →Sri Maha Bodhi and Ruwanwelisaya.
Frequently asked questions
What is Isurumuniya famous for?
Its carvings, especially the Isurumuniya Lovers, a stone panel of a man and woman from roughly the 5th or 6th century, and the elephants carved as if bathing in the rock pool. The rock-top sunset view over Tissa Wewa is also popular.
Is Isurumuniya included in the Anuradhapura ticket?
No. Isurumuniya is a working temple and charges a separate small entrance fee. Confirm the current fee locally. The rest of the sacred city is covered by the main ticket.
Who are the Isurumuniya Lovers?
Legend says they are Prince Saliya, son of King Dutugemunu, and the low-caste woman he loved, but historians are uncertain. Some read them as a god and goddess. The carving dates to roughly the 5th or 6th century.
How long do you need at Isurumuniya?
Forty-five minutes to an hour, including the museum, the carvings and the climb to the viewpoint. Add time for Ranmasu Uyana and a walk on the Tissa Wewa bund. Late afternoon is best.
Is Isurumuniya good for sunset?
Yes. The rock gives views over Tissa Wewa as the sun sets, with stupas in the distance. Climb in the late afternoon, barefoot, and carry socks as the rock retains heat.
What is the Sakwala Chakraya?
The Sakwala Chakraya is a carved circular diagram on a rock in Ranmasu Uyana, near Isurumuniya. Its meaning is debated: some see a cosmic map, others more speculative ideas. It is a curious short detour.