Popham's Arboretum near Dambulla

Popham's Arboretum is a small forest near Dambulla, covering roughly 7.5 hectares, restored from degraded scrub since 1963. Sam Popham, a former tea planter, bought the land and let the forest regenerate with minimal intervention, removing weeds and protecting young trees rather than planting heavily.

The result is a patch of mature dry-zone forest, with species such as ebony, satinwood and ironwood. It shows how quickly forest can recover with protection. The arboretum is now managed by the National Institute of Fundamental Studies, which uses it for research and education.

For a first-time visitor, it is a cool, shady break from the heat and crowds of the Cultural Triangle's monuments.

Sam Popham lived at the arboretum and left it to the research institute so that it could continue as a place of study. His approach, known as assisted natural regeneration, is now widely discussed in conservation circles. The idea is simple: protect the land and help native trees return, rather than replanting from scratch.

Guided day walks at Popham's Arboretum follow trails through the forest, with guides explaining dry-zone trees, their uses and the restoration story. Walks take roughly one to two hours, on flat paths, and are suitable for most visitors.

Birds are common, including hornbills, barbets and flycatchers. Butterflies and lizards are easy to see. Lankan Stays & Trails often suggests the arboretum as a midday alternative to the ruins, because the canopy keeps it cooler.

Guides at Popham's Arboretum are often knowledgeable about traditional uses of dry-zone trees, from medicine to building timber. Ask about ebony and satinwood, both valuable hardwoods once heavily logged in Sri Lanka. Learning about these trees makes the surrounding countryside, with its scattered remnant forests, easier to read on later drives.

Night walks at Popham's Arboretum offer a different experience. Guides with torches look for slender lorises, small nocturnal primates with large eyes, as well as civets, mouse deer and owls. Sightings are not guaranteed, but the forest at night is atmospheric.

Night walks need to be booked in advance and run at set times. Wear long trousers and closed shoes, and bring insect repellent.

Slender lorises are small, slow-moving primates found in Sri Lanka and southern India. They are hard to see in the wild because they move quietly in the canopy at night. Popham's Arboretum is one of the more accessible places in the Cultural Triangle to look for them, with patient guides who know their habits.

Popham's Arboretum lies about 3 kilometres from Dambulla, on the road to Kandalama. It is easy to reach by tuk-tuk or car from Dambulla, and roughly 30 to 40 minutes from Sigiriya.

It combines well with the Dambulla cave temple, Ibbankatuwa's megalithic tombs or a Kandalama lakeside stay.

Popham's Arboretum is easy to include on the same day as Dambulla's cave temple: the cave temple in the late afternoon and a night walk afterwards, or a morning walk followed by the cave temple at around 4pm when the steps are shaded.

Popham's Arboretum charges a modest fee for guided walks. Opening times and walk schedules can change, so confirm locally or ask your hotel to book. Bring water and insect repellent.

The arboretum is small and low-key, with basic facilities. It suits nature lovers, families and anyone wanting a quiet hour. It is not a zoo, so wildlife sightings depend on luck.

Small donations help support the arboretum's upkeep and research. Visitors interested in conservation can ask guides about other forest restoration projects in the dry zone of the Cultural Triangle.