Quick answer
Tissamaharama, usually called Tissa, is the main town near Yala National Park, roughly 30 to 45 minutes from the Palatupana gate. It stands on the site of Magama, capital of the ancient kingdom of Ruhuna, and its sights include the great Tissamaharama stupa, the Yatala and Sandagiri stupas and Tissa Wewa, an ancient irrigation tank that is best at sunset. Paddy fields, a lively market and roadside buffalo curd stalls fill the rest of a quiet afternoon between safaris.
Key takeaways
- Tissamaharama stands on the site of Magama, capital of the ancient kingdom of Ruhuna.
- The great white Tissamaharama stupa is one of the largest in southern Sri Lanka and a major pilgrimage site.
- The Yatala and Sandagiri stupas, also in Tissamaharama, are believed to date from the early centuries of the kingdom.
- Tissa Wewa is an ancient irrigation tank whose bund makes one of the best sunset walks near Yala.
- Tissamaharama's sights are minutes from most hotels, making them easy to visit between morning and afternoon drives.
Tissamaharama, the old capital of Ruhuna
Tissamaharama, usually shortened to Tissa, is the main town near Yala National Park and the base for most safaris. It is roughly 30 to 45 minutes from the Palatupana gate and roughly 30 minutes from Kataragama.
The town stands on the site of Magama, capital of the ancient kingdom of Ruhuna, and its great stupas and tank date from that time. It is a working town of paddy farmers, traders and safari drivers, and that mix gives it its character.
The stupas of Tissamaharama
The great white Tissamaharama stupa is the town's landmark, one of the largest stupas in southern Sri Lanka and a place of pilgrimage. Tradition credits its founding to King Kavantissa of Ruhuna. It is busiest on poya days, when white-clad pilgrims gather in the evening.
The Yatala stupa, with its elephant wall and small museum, and the Sandagiri stupa are close by. Both are believed to date from the early centuries of the kingdom, and they are quieter than the main stupa.
- →Tissamaharama stupa: the great white landmark, busiest on poya days.
- →Yatala stupa: an elephant wall and a small site museum.
- →Sandagiri stupa: quiet, among the oldest in the town.
- →Dress: shoulders and knees covered, shoes and hats off on the terrace.
Tissa Wewa at sunset
Tissa Wewa is an ancient irrigation tank on the edge of town, built to water the fields of Ruhuna and still doing so. Its bund, the long embankment along one side, makes one of the best sunset walks near Yala, with the white stupa reflected in the water.
The tank is full of birds: pelicans, cormorants, egrets, kingfishers and, at dusk, flocks of fruit bats leaving their roosts. Fishermen work from small boats, and buffalo wallow at the edges.
- →Best time: the hour before sunset.
- →Birds: pelicans, cormorants, egrets, kingfishers.
- →At dusk: fruit bats leaving their roosts.
Paddy fields, markets and curd
Paddy fields surround Tissamaharama, watered from tanks that have been in use for two thousand years. A walk or cycle along the field bunds in the early morning or late afternoon shows village life at its quietest.
Tissamaharama's market is busiest in the morning. Along the roads into town, stalls sell buffalo curd in clay pots with kitul treacle, the area's best-known food.
Fitting Tissamaharama into a Yala stay
Tissamaharama's sights are minutes from most hotels, so they fit easily into the middle of the day between drives. Visit the stupas in the early afternoon and Tissa Wewa at sunset, after an afternoon drive or instead of one.
Lankan Stays & Trails often adds a Tissamaharama afternoon to Yala stays of two nights or more, so that the base town is seen as the ancient capital it was.
- →Early afternoon: the stupas.
- →Sunset: Tissa Wewa's bund.
- →Early morning: a cycle through the paddy fields.
Frequently asked questions
What is there to do in Tissamaharama?
Tissamaharama has the great white Tissamaharama stupa, the Yatala and Sandagiri stupas, Tissa Wewa for a sunset walk and birdwatching, paddy fields for cycling and a morning market. Buffalo curd with kitul treacle is sold at roadside stalls. It is the main base for Yala safaris.
How far is Tissamaharama from Yala?
Tissamaharama is roughly 30 to 45 minutes by jeep from the Palatupana gate, Yala's main entrance. It is also roughly 30 minutes from Kataragama and the Katagamuwa gate. Most morning safaris pick up from Tissamaharama at roughly 5 to 5.30am.
What is the history of Tissamaharama?
Tissamaharama stands on the site of Magama, capital of the ancient kingdom of Ruhuna in southern Sri Lanka. Its great stupas and Tissa Wewa tank date from that period, and tradition links the main stupa to King Kavantissa, father of Dutugemunu.
Is Tissa Wewa worth visiting?
Yes. Tissa Wewa is an ancient irrigation tank whose bund makes one of the best sunset walks near Yala, with the white stupa reflected in the water. It is full of birds, including pelicans and egrets, and fruit bats fly out at dusk.
What should I wear to the Tissamaharama stupa?
Cover your shoulders and knees, and remove shoes and hats before stepping onto the stupa terrace. White or light clothing is customary, especially on poya days. The terrace can be hot underfoot at midday, so visit in the early morning or late afternoon.
Is Tissamaharama a good base for Yala?
Yes. Tissamaharama has the widest range of hotels and guesthouses near Yala, restaurants, a market and easy access to the Palatupana gate, Kataragama and Bundala. Lodges near the gate are quieter, but Tissa is more convenient and usually cheaper.