Quick answer
The four devales of Kandy are shrines to the guardian deities Natha, Vishnu, Kataragama and Pattini. The Natha and Pattini devales stand in a walled compound directly opposite the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, the Vishnu Devale is up a flight of steps just to the north, and the Kataragama Devale is on Kotugodella Veediya in the town. The Natha Devale, from the fourteenth century, is the oldest building in Kandy. All four are free to enter and take 45 to 60 minutes together.
Key takeaways
- The Natha Devale dates from the fourteenth century and is the oldest surviving building in Kandy.
- Each of the four devales of Kandy sends its own procession of elephants, drummers and dancers in the Esala Perahera.
- The Kataragama Devale in Kandy stands on Kotugodella Veediya and is served by Hindu priests.
- Pattini is worshipped in Kandy as a goddess of health and fertility, and her shrine is especially popular with women.
- The devales of Kandy are busiest on Wednesdays and Saturdays, the traditional days for offerings to the gods.
What a devale is
A devale is a shrine to a deity, as distinct from a vihara, which honours the Buddha. In Sinhalese Buddhism the gods are powerful beings who protect the island and the religion, and who can be asked for help with worldly matters such as illness, exams and lawsuits.
The four devales of Kandy are known together as the satara devale. Under the kings they were state institutions with their own lands, officials and festivals. Each is still headed by a lay custodian called a basnayake nilame, and the rituals are performed by priests known as kapuralas.
The Natha Devale
The Natha Devale is the senior of the four devales of Kandy and the oldest building in the city. Its stone shrine with a domed tower was built in the fourteenth century, in a style closer to South Indian temples than to anything else in the hill country.
Natha is identified with the bodhisattva Avalokitesvara and, in local belief, with the future Buddha Maitreya. The Natha Devale had a central part in royal ritual: Kandyan kings received their names and their sword of state here before taking the throne. The compound also holds a dagoba and a bo tree.
The Vishnu, Pattini and Kataragama devales
The Vishnu Devale, also called the Maha Devale, stands on higher ground north of the Natha compound, reached by a stone stairway. Vishnu is regarded in Sri Lanka as the protector of Buddhism on the island. A long open hall in front of the shrine is used by drummers and dancers during ceremonies.
The Pattini Devale shares the compound of the Natha Devale. Pattini, known in South India as Kannaki, is a goddess associated with chastity, healing and protection from epidemics. The Kataragama Devale lies apart from the others, among the shops of Kotugodella Veediya, and honours the war god known to Hindus as Murugan or Skanda.
- →Natha Devale: opposite the temple, fourteenth-century stone shrine.
- →Pattini Devale: in the same compound, small and busy with women devotees.
- →Vishnu Devale: up the steps to the north, with a long drumming hall.
- →Kataragama Devale: in the town, marked by a carved and painted gateway.
The devales and the Esala Perahera
The four devales of Kandy are the original owners of the Esala Perahera. The festival began as a procession for the gods to bring rain, and the Tooth Relic was added to it only in the eighteenth century, in the reign of Kirti Sri Rajasinha. The relic procession now leads and the four devale processions follow in fixed order.
The Esala Perahera opens with the planting of a consecrated pole in each of the four devales. For the first five nights the processions stay inside the compounds. They then join the Maligawa procession in the streets, each led by its own tuskers. The festival ends with a water-cutting ceremony at the Mahaweli River.
- →Natha Devale procession: first after the Maligawa procession.
- →Vishnu Devale procession: second in the order.
- →Kataragama Devale procession: third, with kavadi dancers.
- →Pattini Devale procession: last, and the only one in which women take part.
How to visit respectfully
Visiting the devales of Kandy costs nothing and needs no ticket. The Natha compound is entered from the street facing the temple, and the others are a short walk away. Dress as for the temple, and leave shoes at the threshold of each shrine.
The inner rooms of the Kandy devales are closed by a curtain except during offerings, when a kapurala blesses those who bring fruit and flowers. Visitors may watch from the hall. Wednesdays and Saturdays, called kemmura days, are the liveliest. Lankan Stays & Trails includes the devales in guided walks of the sacred quarter, since they are easy to walk past.
- →Entry: free; a small donation in the box is appreciated.
- →Time: 45 to 60 minutes for all four.
- →Best days: Wednesday and Saturday mornings or early evenings.
- →Etiquette: do not photograph worshippers at close range or enter the inner shrine.
Why the devales are worth your time
The four devales of Kandy show something the Temple of the Tooth does not: how ordinary Sri Lankans combine Buddhist practice with appeals to the gods. A family may offer flowers to the relic and then cross the road to ask Pattini for a child's recovery.
The devales are also the calmest places in the centre of Kandy. Tour groups rarely enter, the courtyards are shaded, and the fourteenth-century stonework of the Natha Devale is older than anything in the temple itself. For travellers who like to look closely, they are among the best free things in the city.
Frequently asked questions
What are the four devales of Kandy?
The four devales of Kandy are shrines dedicated to Natha, Vishnu, Kataragama and Pattini, the guardian deities of the Kandyan kingdom. Three stand beside the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic and the fourth, the Kataragama Devale, is in the town centre.
What is the oldest building in Kandy?
The oldest surviving building in Kandy is the Natha Devale, opposite the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic. Its stone shrine dates from the fourteenth century, roughly two hundred years before Kandy became a royal capital, and shows strong South Indian influence.
Can tourists enter the devales in Kandy?
Tourists are welcome in the compounds and outer halls of the devales in Kandy, free of charge. The inner sanctum is reserved for the priests. Dress modestly, remove shoes and hats, and avoid standing between worshippers and the shrine during offerings.
Are the devales Hindu or Buddhist?
The devales of Kandy belong to Sinhalese Buddhist tradition, although the gods are shared with Hinduism. Natha, Vishnu and Pattini are served by Sinhalese lay priests. The Kataragama Devale in the town is served by Hindu priests and feels closest to a kovil.
What is the difference between a devale and a kovil?
A devale is a shrine to a deity within the Sinhalese Buddhist system, usually beside or near a Buddhist temple and served by a lay priest called a kapurala. A kovil is a Hindu temple served by Brahmin priests, with its own architecture and ritual calendar.
When is the best time to visit the Kandy devales?
Wednesday and Saturday are the traditional days for offerings at the Kandy devales, and the shrines are most active in the early morning and around dusk. On other days the compounds are peaceful and almost empty, which suits visitors interested in the buildings.