The best places to visit in Sri Lanka's North Central Province

Sri Lanka's North Central Province covers the heart of the old Rajarata kingdom. From roughly the third century BC to the eleventh century AD, Anuradhapura ruled most of the island, and then Polonnaruwa took over until the thirteenth century. Their ruins, monasteries and vast irrigation tanks shape the landscape today.

The province is part of what travellers call the Cultural Triangle, but not all of it. Sigiriya and Dambulla lie just across the line in Matale district, which belongs to the Central Province. In practice the region is visited as one, from bases such as Habarana, Sigiriya or Anuradhapura.

The plains are dry and hot for most of the year, with main rains roughly October to January. Visit the ruins at opening and in late afternoon, and spend the middle of the day by a pool or reservoir.

Anuradhapura's sacred city is still a living pilgrimage site. The Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi, grown from a cutting of the tree under which the Buddha gained enlightenment, draws white-clad pilgrims daily. The white dome of Ruwanwelisaya, the brick mountain of Jetavanaramaya and the forest ruins of Abhayagiri spread over a huge area, best covered by bicycle or tuk-tuk.

Isurumuniya's rock temple, with its carved lovers, and the Twin Ponds are quieter highlights. Allow a full day, start early and remember shoes come off at every sacred site, which makes hot stones a real issue by midday.

Mihintale, roughly 20 minutes east, is where Buddhism is said to have been introduced to the island. A long stone stairway climbs to stupas and a rock summit with views across the plains. It is especially busy at the Poson full moon in June.

Polonnaruwa's medieval city is compact enough to cycle in a morning. The royal palace, the Quadrangle with its round Vatadage and the four great Buddhas of the Gal Vihara, carved from one granite face, are the highlights. Parakrama Samudra, the huge reservoir beside the city, is lovely at sunset.

Minneriya and Kaudulla national parks sit between Polonnaruwa and Habarana. From roughly July to October, hundreds of elephants gather on the shrinking reservoir shores to graze, a sight known as the Gathering. Outside those months, Eco Park or Hurulu may be better, so let your guide choose on the day.

Medirigiriya, roughly an hour north of Polonnaruwa, has an elegant circular relic house on a rock platform, often with nobody else there.

Ritigala is a forest monastery on a mountain slope, with stone paths, meditation platforms and ruined buildings under tall trees. It is cool, atmospheric and little visited, and makes a fine half-day from Habarana.

The Avukana Buddha, a standing figure roughly 12 metres tall carved from rock, overlooks the great Kala Wewa reservoir. Arrive early to see the morning light on its face. Other quiet sites include Sasseruwa's unfinished Buddha and the Thanthirimale rock temple near Anuradhapura.

Together these places give the province's history a sense of space that the busy main sites cannot.

Most travellers spend three to four nights in the wider Cultural Triangle, which covers the North Central Province plus Sigiriya and Dambulla. Habarana is the most central base. Anuradhapura is worth a night of its own if you want sunrise at the stupas.

Tickets for Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa are bought at site ticket offices or museum counters, and dress codes apply: shoulders and knees covered, hats off and shoes off at sacred areas. Carry socks for hot stone.

Lankan Stays & Trails can arrange early starts, a bicycle guide in Anuradhapura and a safari in the park where elephants are gathering that week.