Quick answer
Poya day in Kandy is the monthly full moon holiday, when Buddhists visit temples and observe religious precepts. The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic is far busier than usual, with long queues of pilgrims dressed in white, especially from mid-morning to evening. Alcohol is not sold anywhere, meat and fish stalls close, and many shops and some museums shut. The botanic gardens, the lake and the viewpoints remain open. Visit the temple at the dawn puja, wear white if you can, and plan meals ahead.
Key takeaways
- Sri Lanka has twelve or thirteen poya days a year, one at each full moon, and every one is a public holiday.
- The sale of alcohol is prohibited throughout Sri Lanka on poya days, including in hotel bars and restaurants.
- Vesak, the poya in May, marks the birth, enlightenment and passing of the Buddha, and brings lanterns and illuminations to Kandy.
- Esala poya, in July or August, is the final night of the Kandy Esala Perahera.
- The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic stays open on poya days and receives several times its usual number of visitors.
What poya is
Poya is the Sinhala name for the full moon day, which has been a day of religious observance in Sri Lanka since Buddhism arrived in the third century BC. Each month's poya has its own name and commemorates an event in the life of the Buddha or the history of the religion.
On poya day in Kandy, devout Buddhists observe eight precepts in place of the usual five. They dress in white, spend the day at a temple listening to sermons and meditating, and eat no solid food after noon. For others it is a family holiday with a temple visit at its centre.
The Temple of the Tooth on poya
The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic on poya day is at its most alive. Thousands of pilgrims come from across the island, many by bus through the night. The queue for the upper shrine can stretch around the courtyard, and the halls are thick with the scent of jasmine and incense.
Visiting the temple on poya needs a change of timing. The dawn puja, at roughly 5.30, is busy but orderly. From about 9 in the morning until after the evening puja the crowds are intense. Foreign visitors are welcome, and wearing white or pale clothing is a mark of respect that is noticed.
- →Best time: the dawn puja, arriving by 5.
- →Busiest: 9 in the morning to 8 at night.
- →Dress: white or light colours, shoulders and knees covered.
- →Expect: slow queues, bare feet on hot stone, little room for photography.
What is closed and what is open
What closes in Kandy on poya day is mainly commercial. Banks, offices and government museums shut. Many shops on Dalada Veediya stay closed, and the central market trades at a fraction of its normal level, with no meat or fish. Supermarkets usually open.
What stays open in Kandy on poya is most of what visitors want. The Royal Botanic Gardens at Peradeniya, Udawattakele, the viewpoints, the devales and the lake are all accessible, and often busy with local families. Cultural dance shows normally go ahead, though it is wise to confirm.
- →Open: temple, botanic gardens, forest, lake, viewpoints, most hotels and restaurants.
- →Closed: banks, government offices, National Museum, tea museum, many shops.
- →Reduced: buses and trains run, with holiday crowds.
Alcohol and food
Alcohol is not sold in Kandy on poya day. The ban applies from midnight to midnight and covers wine stores, bars, restaurants and hotels. Some hotels allow guests to drink what is already in the minibar or what they have brought, and others do not.
Food on poya day in Kandy is easy to find, though choice narrows. Hotel restaurants serve as normal without alcohol. Smaller eating houses may close or serve only vegetarian dishes. At Vesak and Poson, roadside stalls called dansal give free food and drink to all passers-by.
Vesak, Poson and Esala in Kandy
Vesak, the May full moon, is the most important poya of the year. Kandy is decorated with paper lanterns and illuminated panels telling Jataka stories, and the temple area is crowded late into the night. Alcohol and meat sales are suspended for two days.
Other poya days in Kandy have their own character. Poson, in June, recalls the arrival of Buddhism and draws pilgrims to Mihintale more than to Kandy. Esala, in July or August, ends the Perahera. Dates follow the lunar calendar and shift each year, so check them before fixing an itinerary.
How to plan around it
Planning around poya day in Kandy is a matter of small adjustments. Do your shopping and any museum visits the day before. Buy alcohol in advance if a drink with dinner matters to you. Book transport early, since buses and trains fill with holiday travellers.
Poya can be the best day to be in Kandy if you want to see the temple as a place of pilgrimage. Lankan Stays & Trails flags every poya in an itinerary and, where possible, arranges the Kandy night to fall on or beside it for travellers who ask for that experience.
- →Go to the temple at dawn, then the botanic gardens.
- →Keep the afternoon for a viewpoint or a rest.
- →Return to the lake at dusk to watch the crowds in white.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Temple of the Tooth open on poya day?
The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic is open on poya days and holds its three daily pujas as usual. It is far more crowded than on ordinary days, particularly from mid-morning to evening. The dawn puja is the most manageable time for visitors.
Can you buy alcohol in Kandy on poya day?
Alcohol cannot be bought in Kandy on poya day. The nationwide ban covers shops, bars, restaurants and hotels from midnight to midnight. Vesak in May brings two consecutive dry days. Buy in advance if you wish to drink privately in your room.
What is closed in Kandy on poya day?
Banks, government offices, state museums and many shops close in Kandy on poya day. Meat and fish stalls in the market do not trade. Hotels, most restaurants, supermarkets, the botanic gardens and the main religious sites remain open.
Should I avoid Kandy on poya day?
There is no need to avoid Kandy on poya day. The city is busier and some services are limited, but the atmosphere at the temple is memorable. Adjust your plans by visiting at dawn, booking meals at your hotel and shopping on another day.
What should I wear in Kandy on poya day?
White or pale clothing that covers shoulders and knees is ideal on poya day in Kandy, matching what pilgrims wear. It is not compulsory for visitors, but it is appreciated. Avoid black, bright patterns and clothing with images of the Buddha.
How many poya days are there in a year?
There are twelve poya days in most years and thirteen in years with an extra full moon. Each falls on the day of the full moon, so the dates change annually. Sri Lanka publishes the official list of holidays before each year begins.